The 10th summit of Seoraksan

The gusting wind was not helping with my balance. I was teetering along Dinosaur Ridge, the tripod in my massive backpack sliding from side to side with every step. This familiar terrain felt brand new under my heavy load. Up on the ridge, it seemed that fall had finished – and the icy winds and brooding skies of winter were moving in. I was cold, and moving slowly. But there was nowhere else on Earth I’d rather be. This was my 10th summit of Seoraksan!

This trip through Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원) was entirely serendipitous. In fact, I should have been in the office! But an opportunity had come up that I simply could not resist. For the very first time, I was going to guide a group through my favorite park!

A striking image taken in Baekdamsa valley. The trees are aflame with the bright colors of fall foliage: the leaves are displaying vivid yellows, oranges, reds and greens. The forest is split around a river, which runs through the center of the frame. The aquamarine water pools near the bottom of the frame. In the distance, a mountain rises above this tranquil scene, also cloaked in autumn colors. A trail leads alongside the river up towards the mountain. — The beauty of Baekdamsa valley

What began as a research project turned into an invitation to join a film crew that was going to be exploring the park. I leaped at the chance to spend three days and two nights in the park with them – this was more time than I’d yet spent in the park in one outing! It was also a chance to see some of the peak fall foliage during an off-peak time, as we would be in the park during the middle of the week. And I realized that it would be an extra special way to climb Daecheongbong for my 10th summit!

Just because I wasn’t training in the park this time didn’t mean it wasn’t going to be challenging! To start, I brought along Kent’s 65L backpack. The fact that I’d never worn it before wasn’t going to stop me! Part of my role was to be a small Sherpa, so I wanted to be prepared. But instead of large, bulky items like sleeping mats, I wound up with some hefty batteries and camera equipment. I figured I’d either quickly remember my trekking days or do a little weight training rather than cardio – and either way, challenge accepted!

A photograph of a steep, nearly sheer vertical rock face. The peach-colored rocks are streaked with black in places, and a few small plants grow out of cracks and crevices. A photographer stands improbably propped up on a rocky ledge. From the low angle of the image, the rock rises up dramatically into the blue sky above. A puffy cloud is blowing into the frame from the left.

Day 1 – Scenic til sunset

The first morning of my 10th summit adventure began with the first of many new experiences. After meeting the crew, I was part of a small group that took the cable car! I’d been curious about this otherwise inaccessible Gwongeumseong mountain fortress for a while. But my need for speed coupled with my skittishness around cable cars had kept me away – until now! And I was so glad that we went: the views from the top were amazing!

An image taken at the lower cable car station in Seoraksan National Park. Some of the cable car machinery lines the sides of this image, and the thick cables run through the middle of the scene. The lower slopes of this mountain are mostly green, dappled with yellows and browns. A rocky mountain rises into the blue sky in the middle of this scene. The author is about to ascend to an otherwise inaccessible peak using the cable car. — Cable car time!

A selfie of the author above the crowds on Gwongeumsan. The wind is blowing her hair out of her ponytail and into her face. Behind her, the bare mountainside slopes downward towards a small hut and a throng of visitors, then rises back up again covered in fall forest in the distance. — Enjoying a scramble around Gwongeumsan!

A stunning photograph showing the best of the park's rocky peaks and vivid fall foliage. Ridge follows colorful ridge in what appears to be a sea of mountains. Perched on a bare outcropping of rocks in the bottom left of the frame, a lone photographer captures the scene. — A peek deep into the park!

Our foray into this new territory meant that we got a bit of a late start on the actual hiking. We didn’t make a move until after noon! Even after we’d set off down the trail, we couldn’t just zoom along. An abundance of excellent scenery barred the way: all of it demanding the attention of my new friend’s camera! Although I was excited to get deeper into the park, I found that I didn’t mind stopping: more time for my camera too!

This photograph shows a unique angle of the oft-photographed Biseondae rock formation. Seen from the side and far below, here they appear as a pair of towers, rising up to pierce a wispy white cloud high in the blue sky above. The forest in this area of the park is still mostly green, and the verdant foliage fills the bottom third of the image. — Biseondae, towering above the forest

After enjoying the beautiful Biseondae area, we finally began to climb up towards Madeungryeong. But that, too, was arrested quickly. This time, by a discovery! I’d long desired to visit Geumganggul cave – but I had no idea how to get there! For a long time, I thought it was off-limits to the public; possibly accessed via a secret side trail reserved for Biseondae rock climbers. Turns out, I’d just never been on this trail in enough daylight to see the turn-off!

In another dramatic image, the side face of Biseondae rises up into the ether. Light and shadow play across the sheer rock face, highlighting cracks and crevices. But the viewer's eye is drawn towards the center of the image, where a steep staircase leads up to the yawning black mouth of a cave. Beyond Biseondae, other rocky pinnacles rise up into the sky. — A moody glimpse up at Geumganggol

Although we were pressed for time, I wanted to explore the cave and my companion wanted to film the vistas. So we stopped, and I sprinted up some very vertical stairs to reach the cave. It was every bit as magical as I’d hoped it would be. The entrance was huge, with a smaller grotto deep inside. The roof of the cave was strung with paper lotus lanterns. A trickle of water escaped a crack on one of the walls, and a tin cup below collected this cool offering for pilgrims.

A photograph taken from the entrance of Geumganggol. The top of the cave is lined with paper lotus lanterns, with wishes and prayers inscribed on gold papers hanging below. There is a large metal bell hanging beside the opening of a deeper, darker grotto. Some golden lanterns illuminate the interior enough that the viewer can see a kneeling figure and the shadowy shape of a Buddha statue in the recesses of this inner chamber. — A glimpse into Geumganggol

Making friends with strangers

Turning around, immense views of the whole of the park spread out before me. I could have stayed there forever! But I had responsibilities, and a 10th summit ahead of me! Reunited, my partner and I carried on; upwards and onwards!

A stunning image captured along the trail to Madeungryeong. Some medium-sized rocks have been arranged into a staircase that lines the side of a huge boulder to the right. To the left, tree branches arc over the path, including one branch covered in flame-orange leaves! — The trail to Madeungryeong

Now, we were racing the sun as it prepared to drop below the craggy crests of Dinosaur Ridge ahead. We clambered over boulders and stormed sets of wooden steps. But by the time we reached my favorite lookout point, the light was fading fast. We decided to continue on, over Madeungryeong Pass and straight to our shelter. We could just come back the following day.

This photograph captures the last rays of the sun setting on the west side of Seoraksan's Dinosaur Ridge. The mountain slopes on the east, close to the photographer, are already in deep shadow. Grey clouds gather over the twin peaks of Daecheongbong and Jungcheongbong, visible over the ridge in the distance. — Dinosaur Ridge at dusk

Fatigue was a factor on our descent. My companion was carrying even heavier than I was, with a tripod strapped horizontally across the top of his pack! We stopped a few times, including at Osaeam. Osaeam is one of the secret temples in the interior of the park, and one that I realized that I’d underestimated. In the tranquil tones of twilight, surrounded by the colorful beauty of fall foliage, and with a monk intoning softly in the main hall, I was awestruck.

A square portrait of one of the smaller temple buildings of Osaeam hermitage, nestled below some bare, craggy peaks. The golden sunlight seems to fall directly on the traditional structure, and illuminates the riot of fall foliage surrounding it. The sky above, filling the upper third of the frame, is Robin's egg blue. — The lovely Osaeam

We completed the trek down to the shelter by the light of our headlamps. Sometimes, through the tree branches, we caught sight of a sliver of rising moon and the bright pinpricks of planets and stars overhead. It was incredibly serene and still in the forest. The only sounds were the crunching of our feet over fallen leaves, and the occasional hooting of an owl.

At Suryeomdong Shelter, our home for the night, we quickly devoured our dinners before lights out. I flopped onto a rented blanket, and despite the stifling heat of the shelter, I was asleep in moments.

Day 2 – Twice the pass and thrice the temple

The next morning, we could set our own schedule. Away from the constraints of the big group, and our only mandate to take beautiful videos, we were free. We woke up just before dawn so that my new friend could film the sun’s first rays hitting the mountaintops high above. But my 10th summit would have to wait: after breakfast, we were headed back exactly the way we came – up Madeungryeong Pass!

A vertical image featuring several towers of stacked rocks, The tallest and most dramatic of these is in the foreground in the bottom left corner. Hikers routinely stack rocks like this on Korea's mountain slopes, and the placement of a rock is often accompanied by a prayer or wish. All of the rocks here are a light grey, and they line a shallow river. The bottom half of the image is dark and shady. The top half, in contrast, is a brilliant yellow with warm rays of sunlight hitting the golden foliage of the fall forest. — Wishes and mountains!

Once again, we stopped at Osaeam for fresh water and photographs. During our climb, we met two young and friendly monks, who shared some delicious handmade rice balls with us! It was just the fortification I needed: up on the ridge, conditions were cold and blustery!

At our first stop, I bundled up into all my layers. This was going to be a day for waiting and watching, so my muscles would have little chance to warm themselves. The sun would sometimes peek out to shine warmly on my black tights. But when the sun disappeared behind thick layers of clouds, it was literally freezing!

A portrait of the inner valleys of Seoraksan National Park. Taken from a high point along Dinosaur Ridge, this image looks down on a sea of undulating forest, with rocky crags peeking up here and there. There are three trees near the ridge, all of which have been shaped to grow a certain way by the wind. The clouds hang low and heavy overhead; a dark grey sky. A sense of chill is conveyed through the stark beauty of this image. — Windswept trees (and amazing vistas) along Dinosaur Ridge!

Our stops today were especially lengthy. The longer I waited, the chillier I got! I had thought breaking out the tights and sweater, along with my rain jacket, gloves and hat would be enough. It probably would have even been too much for one of my usual quick expeditions, but it was colder than I expected! Still, I felt lucky: most people don’t get to spend their workdays in the mountains! Even as I blew on my frozen fingers, I knew I was exactly where I was meant to be.

After showing my companion a few favorite viewpoints, it was time to descend. Now, we were the rear party! We’d met the rest of the crew on top of the mountain, enjoying a picnic lunch with some locals! We stopped to take in the scenery of the forest on the lower slopes and enjoy the Osaeam – for the third time, but this time in broad daylight!

This photograph showcases some of the beautiful fall foliage in Seoraksan National Park. A staircase twists down the mountain slopes at right angles below the trees. There are a multitude of leaf colors in this picture: green, red, yellow, orange, gold and brown. This image was taken on the descent from Madeungryeong to Osaeam. — A riot of colors!

Back at the shelter, the whole group shared some quality time. The lot of us nearly filled up the shelter! There were stories and snack-swaps and a lot of general merriment until the lights went out at 9 pm. It was a true sauna: hot enough to steam up the windows and get everybody sweaty for the second time that day.

A view of the outside of Suryeomdong shelter, where the author and the film crew stayed for two nights. This shelter lies in a deep valley above Baekdamsa temple. It features a ranger's office, accommodation for 18 hikers and a cooking/dining room. Here, the cooking area and several outdoor picnic tables are visible, as well as the stairs leading up to the entrance. — Home away from home: Suryeomdong shelter!

Day 3 – The temple and the top!

The brightening dawn seemed to wake everyone up early. But there was a lot to be done before we could head out for the day. I’d been worried that I’d be impatient with this kind of travel. But I found ways to fill up my time: sometimes wandering off to take photos of my own, and sometimes curling up in my blanket for the wait.

We were to be the rear party again today. After setting off around 8:30, we stopped frequently to capture the stunning scenery in the valley above Baekdamsa. It was as remarkable for me as it was for the guys: I’d never traveled up from Baekdamsa before! In general, I felt like I’d been able to see everything through new eyes by traveling with a group of first time visitors. But on this morning, in this valley, I was genuinely surprised and delighted by what was around every bend in the river.

A vertical image of a section of trail in Baekdam valley. The trail here is a wooden boardwalk overlaid with black rubber matting to help with grip. It runs alongside a cliff wall that juts out above the trail in places. Here, the rock forms a semicircle that frames the trail on the right. To the left, colorful trees line the cool blue of a small river. — This trail…

But I did know what was on top of the valley. I was incredibly excited to show my charges one of the most remarkable temples in the whole Korean peninsula. Bongjeongam is a personal favorite of mine, and I was eager to see what everyone thought of it! After a short but intense climb, we joined the rest of the crew for a little lunch and filming!

The bright midday sun was shining warmly down on this little hermitage. So I was really comfortable to curl up on some rocks above it all and soak it in. Usually I only have a few minutes to absorb the great views and vibes of this place – but on this day, I had hours!

A portrait of the five-story pagoda at Bongjeongam surrounded by the splendor of peak fall foliage. The light in this image is soft, making the scene appear almost pastel. The pagoda itself sits on the edge of a rocky cliff, and is cordoned off from the public with a small wooden railing. In front of the pagoda is a wooden deck where pilgrims can pray and meditate. None of the sky is visible: the background is only forest and rock. A large, lone crow sits on the tree nearest the pagoda on the right. — …and this pretty pagoda!

A funny photo of the author's crossed ankles beside a bag of camera lenses and a jacket. The author is lounging on the rocks and guarding the equipment while her photographer companion films the scenery. — Just doin’ my job!

A vertical photograph of the temple buildings of Bongjeongam, high on the slopes of Seoraksan. A traditional curved, tile roof fills the bottom third of the image. In the middle and to the right is the main hall. Above the temple grounds, towering rock pinnacles pierce the blue sky. — Beautiful Bongjeongam!

We carried on as a big group for our ascent up Daeche o ngbong – and my 10th summit of Seoraksan! I spoke to different people as we leapfrogged one another up the trail. As we’d seen earlier on Madeungryeong and Dinosaur Ridge, fall had progressed faster at this altitude. Most of the trees were bare, but a colorful carpet of leaves covered the trail and the forest floor. On the shady east side of Jungcheongbong, Daechongbong’s sister summit, these leaves were covered in frost!

It was thrilling to stand on Daecheongbong peak again! The sweeping views over the craggy ridges and sparkling sea always take my breath away. And I love the big, bold and beautiful summit stele with its characteristic red writing!

A portrait of the author in her happy place. She stands beside the summit stele that reads Daecheongbong in bright red lettering. She has her left arm and leg swung out wide, and is balancing with the right side of her body. Above the boulders of the summit, the sea is a dark blue set against a backdrop of brighter blue sky. — Peak perfection.

Once again, I had plenty of time to enjoy it as filming took place. Despite the fact that it was Friday, the peak was still pretty packed. I waited in the photo queue for the summit stele on three different occasions. Then I hunkered down among some big boulders for some snacks with a view!

A candid photograph of Daecheongbong summit, crowded with Korean hikers. A party of about a dozen is clustered around the summit stele, wearing brightly colored hiking gear and holding various poses. There is a pile of hiking poles to the left of this group. Opposite them, another group of hikers wait in line for their turn for photographs.

An exciting action-shot of a helicopter making a delivery to Jungcheong shelter! The red helicopter hovers directly above the shelter. A long rope hanging down is attached to a parcel in blue tarp. Jungcheongbong, with its two characteristic spheres, rises over this scene. — Special delivery!

The team began the final descent shortly after 4 pm. It seemed like there would be just enough time for the fastest hikers among the group to be down by sunset. But for the heavily-laden, well, we were going to need headlamps. The Osaek route is steep: it’s almost all stairs of some kind. This was tough on a few folks, so we just stuck together and ambled down at an easy pace. The sun’s last rays gilded the mountain slopes when we were about halfway down. After that, we felt our way down by artificial light.

The following day, I returned to my home, my husband and my normal life. I was delighted to be back with my love – but so, so happy to have spent more time in Seoraksan National Park and nab my 10th summit of my favorite mountain! After a very busy year of races and chasing 120 summits, I hadn’t seen my favorite park in 2018. So I was incredibly grateful to have had the chance to go back to that place where my love of mountains really began.

Another stunning scene from Seoraksan National Park. This photograph features a gnarled Korean pine tree, rising above a sprawling vista of the park. Uncountable rocky peaks and ridges rise beyond, above a river valley far below. The colors of fall dapple the mountain slopes where they are forested.

Know and Go! Seoraksan National Park

As I’ve covered a lot of the practical information about visiting this park in other areas, I’ll be brief here.

The long route

On this outing, I spent three days and two nights in the park. The route that I covered on this expedition was as follows:

Day 1: Seorakdong park entrance: cable car up to Gwongeumseong mountain fortress & back; hike Biseondae – detour to Geumganggul cave – Madeungryeong pass – Osaeam hermitage – Suryeomdong shelter

Day 2: Suryeomdong shelter – Osaeam hermitage – Madeungryeong pass – short detour down Dinosaur Ridge & back the same way to Suryeomdong shelter

Day 3: Suryeomdong shelter – Bongjeongam hermitage – Daecheongbong peak (my 10th summit!) – Oseak hot springs

Read more about Madeungryeong and Dinosaur Ridge here. Explore Osaeam and Bongjeongam here. Find out about Oseak and Daecheongbong here. Or simply check out the Seoraksan main page!

Nice new places

I visited two new places on the first day of this expedition: Gwongeumseong mountain fortress and Geumganggul cave!

Gwongeumseong mountain fortress is situated just inside the main entrance to the park at Seorakdong. It is only accessible by cable car at this time. For anyone with mobility limitations, a time crunch, or those traveling with a very young or very old family, this is a great way to get up high and see the magnificent scenery. The top is really rocky and exciting, and there are excellent views over Cheonbuldong valley and Sinheungsa temple. There are cafes in both the upper and lower cable car stations. Read more about Gwongeumseong mountain fortress on the Korea National Park Service website – but be aware that although listed as a hike, accessing Gwongeumseong requires the use of the cable car.

Geumganggul cave is another really cool place to visit. To get here, turn right at Biseondae, following the signs up to Madeungryeong. After 400 meters, you’ll reach another signboard. Turn right again to take the 200 meter detour up to Geumganggul (and a beautiful rocky lookout!). Head up to this cave and back to Seorakdong for a one-day trip, or make a stop there on your way up to Madeungryeong. The cave itself was absolutely magical. For equally magical views over the park, head to the cave during daylight hours! Read more about Geumganggul cave on the Korea National Park Service website here.

Want more Seoraksan stoke?

Check out this Seoraksan video from ABC’s Rock the Park that I had the privilege of being involved in!

Thanks for reading! See you at Seoraksan soon!