Where spires slice the sky. Above coast and conifer. A knife’s edge trek to challenge the body and delight the mind. This is the rugged heart of Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원). This is Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선)!
In 2014, our big three mountain adventure took us along the most jagged of Seoraksan’s spines for the first time! We completed our Dinosaur Ridge trek in the fall, and got to experience the beauty of the changing seasons in the forest below from on high. When we returned in 2017, we wanted to enjoy the dramatic scenery as much as possible once again. This time, we’d be on Dinosaur Ridge in summer – and we brought our fancy camera to capture it in all its glory.
Our new adventure began before dawn under a dazzlingly starry sky. It began the minute the park opened at 4 am! We ran by starlight; past the sleeping stone Buddha statue and into the forest. We turned on our headlamps and climbed hard; up, up, up. Up wooden staircases and big boulders that formed natural steps, all the way up to Madungryeong pass – and the start of Dinosaur Ridge.
We paused on some steps just before the pass to look back across the park. It was one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. The sun rose slowly, a molten sphere of red gold, from a sparkling orange sea. It cast a warm, magical light on the east-facing ridge. It was as though the mountain itself was glowing gold from within.
The soft sunlight lit the jagged spires of Dinosaur Ridge, and far beyond them, the rounded twin peaks of Daecheongbong and Jungcheongbong. This was our first glimpse of our destination, but from then on, it was almost always in our sights.
From Madungryeong pass, we turned left to head south on Dinosaur Ridge. We were completely alone; contemplating the scenery in serene silence. We set off, walking a knife’s edge trail over the spines.
Presented with vista after gorgeous vista, we were constantly turning stopping to stare. This trail in the heart of the park is truly something: showcasing Korea’s amazing geological formations and the local climate’s ability to completely transform the scenery from one season to the next. On this adventure, the tan-colored teeth of the ridge rose out of a wild and wet summer forest, teeming with the little lives of birds and insects.
The peaks are so craggy here it’s hard to believe they’re real and not some sort of special effect or fanciful painting. We were so mesmerized by the scenery that time seemed to stand still. Stopping often, the beauty of the scenery completely filled our minds. Navigating over the tricky terrain also took all of our concentration.
Only when we started to see other hikers for the first time did we realize that we were nearing the end of Dinosaur Ridge, having traversed it like it was a lovely dream.
A quick dip into the forest, followed by another climb – and then we were standing our our sweet summit again. After a significant amount of time spent lurking at height, we went down into the depths of Cheonbuldong on the Yangpok trail.
The last time we were on this trail was in 2012, descending after our very first summit of Seorkasan. Tall waterfalls, deep blue pools and walkways suspended over deep drops greeted us on the way down. This dramatically rocky area was every bit as stunning as the ridge above, only from a new, low angle! We descended slowly, savoring every sight.
*The route described above makes a loop consisting of the following three segments: an ascent up Madeungryeong, a traverse along Dinosaur Ridge & a descent down Yangpok.
Know and Go! Madeungryeong pass (마등령)
First, get yourself to the east side of Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원). Then, find your way up to Madeungryeong pass (마등령). This trail is your best bet for getting up to the start of Dinosaur Ridge. In the past, this pass was a 4-way junction. A closed area to the north, and limited foot traffic down to Osaeam have turned this into more of a Dinosaur lead-in or lead-out. But this is an amazing route, full of fun climbs and gorgeous views. I think the upper part of this trail is the best place to see the sunrise in the whole park. It’s also thrilling to gaze toward the jagged rock teeth of Dinosaur Ridge as you approach, knowing that you’ll be standing up there soon, somehow! There are also great views of the peak – and if that’s your destination, seeing it off in the distance, towering high above all of the other peaks and ridges, is awe-inspiring.
It’s 6.5 kilometers from the main park entrance at Seorakdong to Madeungryeong pass. About 3.5 of those kilometers are spent climbing up stairs and rocks over beautiful views. The start is easy, level trail through the forest until you reach Biseondae: a massive rock face that’s popular for rock climbing! Here, a right turn will have you ascending immediately towards Madeungryeong. (A left turn leads up the Yangpok trail, described below.)
Know and Go! Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선)
The ridge itself is only 5 kilometers, but it’s some of the gnarliest climbing that one can do in Korea’s national parks. Coupled with truly spectacular views, you won’t want to rush it – so budget lots of time to enjoy it!
There is a lot of climbing, both up and down, with narrow passages in between rocks and sections of ropes. But this is a national park, so it is well-equipped and maintained, and never truly sketchy or dangerous. And it’s not all ropes courses and handholds – there are some flatter areas of normal hiking even here. Frequent plunging drop-offs provide thrilling views, but if you stay on the trail, these present no danger.
I’d say this route is doable for most hikers. Honestly, even if you’re a bit skittish around heights, I’d say give it a go anyways. There are incredible views to be had up there, and I’m sure you’ll be happy you challenged yourself and went.
Despite the hordes of hikers that descend every fall, somehow the trail is never too chaotic. I attribute this to widely varying hiking speeds and the Korean custom of pulling over for picnics along the route. If it does get a bit busy for your taste, stop for a photo op or a picnic yourself!
One more thing to remember: if you’re bound for the peak, it’s an extra 2.5k on. Thus, a one-way trip from the park entrance to the peak via Dinosaur Ridge is a rugged 14 kilometers or so.
Daecheongbong is present and accounted for on both of Korea’s 100 famous summits lists, of course. This is the Black Yak description, and this is the Korea Forest Service entry.
Know and Go! Yangpok (양복) trail in Cheonbuldong valley (천불동계곡)
The Yangpok route is a popular choice for a descent following an adventure on Dinosaur Ridge and/or the summit! The trail gets its name from a waterfall (and a shelter) of the same name along the route. It follows Cheonbuldong valley (also known as Seorak valley) back to the Seorakdong park entrance. From the peak, Cheonbuldong runs roughly northeast, basically below Dragon Ridge.
This valley is more than just practical – it’s absolutely stunning! Cheonbuldong is a real feast for the eyes. Those steep, apricot rock walls that narrow and widen! The splashing waterfalls that fill sparkling pools! The catwalks and walkways alongside and overtop it all!
Although I’m quite sure it would be lovely to climb as well, to date I’ve only descended on the Yangpok trail. From the summit, it’s about 11 kilometers to the park entrance (just 8.5 or so from the end of Dinosaur Ridge). These kilometers are mainly downhill.
The trail here is one of the most used by visitors to the park, and thus, one of the most developed. The steep sections are made simpler with wide staircases, and tricky traverses over slippery slopes are avoided altogether with wooden walkways. That makes this particular trail a perfect choice for a descent on tired legs. There are also several shelters along the way, so if you need water or desire a bit of a break, there’s options for you!
Head back to the Seoraksan main page to check out other great hikes in this great national park!
Thanks for reading, and enjoy your adventure on Dinosaur Ridge and beyond!
