Daecheongbong (대청봉)
This time, we wanted the classic Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원) experience. We wanted to re-experience that tough pre-dawn hike up Osaek just in time for sunrise on Daecheongbong (대청봉). Setting off under cover of darkness, we had no idea of the surprise that awaited us on top!
A classic route, and we did it in classic KnC fashion. Of course we were too excited to start climbing, so of course we set out too early. And of course we then reached the peak long before sunrise. We had decided to zip up, quick as we could, and were left sitting soaked on the summit in darkness. Despite donning our jackets, we still got chilled as a stiff breeze blew through our clothes. A good half hour was spent alone, circling the sleepy summit. Then others began to arrive, mostly from the shelter below, and soon we were all jostling for spots.
We ultimately settled on a spot just below the summit, tucked away from the wind among some big boulders. Our spot had a great view directly ahead. The areas above, below and to either side of us were packed with long-legged tripods and other hikers with their cameras at the ready. Despite all of the jostling bodies, it was no warmer, so we had a chilly wait for the sun to make its appearance. But when it finally did, it was so worth it! It was a lovely sunrise. Some clouds lay low on the horizon, but they simply added another contrasting color to the watercolor scene.
We spent so much time gazing that this scene that we hadn’t yet glimpsed what the rising sun was illuminating. When we emerged from our huddle and turned around, we were awestruck. Our last visit had been only a couple of weeks earlier, but now, everything was different.
Gone was the rainbow of green in the lush forest. In its place was a new rainbow of autumn colors. Seoraksan’s scenery had completely changed, and it was wonderful.
Our descent from the peak that morning was characterized by not running. I could not get enough of the beauty around me. It was like seeing an old friend at a celebration; dressed up and radiant. Honestly, we’ve enjoyed Seoraksan’s slopes in every season – but this was something really special.
Eventually, Kent’s logic – that we would keep seeing more of the same as we went ahead with our day’s adventure – prevailed, and on we went. This time, we were heading back the way we usually come: along the Namgyori ridge!
And Kent had been right, the scenery continued to be magnificent. Every turn brought new sights worth sighing over; different hues and shapes coming into focus. We couldn’t help but stop and take it in.
As a result, we made slow progress. But that mattered little to us, especially because we’d had this gorgeous experience completely to ourselves since the summit! But it did mean the we eventually ran out of water and battery power and had to hurry towards our descent.
This descent was new to us! We finally had a chance to head down from Daeseungryeong and check out Daeseung Falls. Alas, the lack of recent rains meant that these falls were not exactly falling for us. But we were impressed by the sheer, vertical height of the cliffs and spent a relaxing time stretching on an observation platform.
We ambled down the final kilometer, watch off, enjoying the tranquility of the forest before hitting the highway. We were standing beside the bus stop and considering the schedule, when a kind individual pulled over and offered us a ride to the next town! Talk about our lucky day!
*The route described above makes a loop consisting of the following three segments: an ascent up Osaek, a traverse along the Namgyori ridge & a descent down to Daeseung Falls. The former and the latter are described below. Refer back to the main Seoraksan page for more information on the Namgyori ridge route.
Know and Go! Seoraksan – via Osaek
The climb to the summit from Osaek is the most popular for good reason: no other trail will get you there quicker. It’s the perfect choice for those wanting to witness sunrise and maximize their time in the park.
This trail is 4.8k long. Regrettably, I don’t have a good map of the Osaek trail. But I can tell you this: going up, nearly the whole distance is spent climbing. So if you go down via this route, it’s likewise almost all descent. The trail is made up of wooden and stone steps. Yet this route has more than just practical value.
Although most people simply speed up it, their sights on the summit, Osaek is beautiful. For one, it’s deep in the forest, which is lovely in different ways in different seasons. There’s a pretty stream, and occasional glimpses of the twinkling lights of the town down below. There are places to pull over and picnic. If you look back and across the deep valley, you can catch some good glimpses of Jeombongsan – the secretive, long-closed summit on the southwest side of the park. A short open stretch just before the peak offers nice views above the forest – if you can restrain yourself from rushing the peak!
As perhaps South Korea’s single most famous summit, you’d expect Daecheongbong to be on both 100 famous summits lists, and it is! This is the Black Yak description, and this is what Korea Forest Service has to say about this special summit!
Know and Go! Daeseung Falls
This is a beautiful hike regardless of whether the falls are falling or not. There are terrific views over the highway that snakes up to Hangyeryeong, and expansive views across a somewhat flatter landscape with rolling hills on the northwest side of Seoraksan. It’s also another way to access or descend from the Namgyori ridge, which as I’ve explained elsewhere, is one of my top recommendations. Plus, the cliffs that provide the drop for the falls are impressive rock formations, water or no water!
That said, I bet it would be incredible to see the falls in full flow. For that kind of experience, your best bets are to go in spring (to catch the runoff from the snow melt) or in mid-summer (to reap the rewards of the monsoon).
It is 2.7 kilometers from Daeseungryeong pass to the Jangsudae (Daeseung Falls) park entrance. Daeseung Falls are about 1k from the entrance. This is a fairly steep route, but it’s not too tricky or technical. Starting from here will put you on the Namgyori ridge faster than the Sibiseonyeotang side. Coming down here has perks in terms of being able to catch a bus relatively easily (or hitch-hike, as we did) – but bear in mind that there is less in the way of shops and restaurants. In fact, there’s only one restaurant, which may or may not be open during your visit.
Head back to the Seoraksan main page to check out other great hikes in this great national park!
Thanks for reading, and enjoy your adventures around Osaek, Daeseung Falls and beyond!
