We were back. Back to run the Korea 50k for the third time. But this time, we had a very special mission.
That mission was to run the incredibly challenging course in under 11 hours.
This is the story of the 2018 Korea 50k.
Pre-race prep
We’re quite familiar with the Korea 50k course now, after running the race in 2016 and 2017 (not to mention a few training runs on the course in early 2017)! But can one ever be too prepared when it comes to a tough challenge like this? We thought probably not, and decided to run the course yet again to re-familiarize ourselves with this classic Korean race.
But there was a twist in our training for the 2018 Korea 50k. We decided that instead of running back to the stadium where the race begins, we’d end our day with a quick summit of Soyosan – one of the 120 summits of our second mountain mission! Our customized course would be 50 kilometers, a little shy of the race’s official 58k, but with nearly identical elevation gain and the chance to explore a long, challenging and remote section of ridge that links the summit to the race course.
So on March 31st, precisely three weeks before race day, we set off to train on the course once more. We began before dawn and quickly found the friendly, familiar route of our race. Course markings from previous years pointed the way, although we needed little help remembering this beloved route! It was a little too early for the annual spring explosion of greenery, so we had good views of the mountains’ rocky shapes and the urban sprawl below.
The morning dawned cool and overcast – perfect for a long training run! We couldn’t help but pause for photos with Cheonbosan and Chilbongsan, the first two summits along the course. But then we sped as quickly as we could; down the technical hill towards Huiamsa temple, over the forest roads toward Wangbangsan, and up and down over its steep, leaf-covered slopes.
We did not pause again until Wangbangsan’s summit! There it was time for a bit of a break with our friend Flat Stanley, who was hitching a ride in my running vest. We were not entirely alone here. Just below the summit there was a big work party, possibly planting trees on a sadder section of the mountain slope.
This was not the last we’d seen of the forestry. There had been some changes on Wangbangsan’s slopes since our previous visit. Our descent through the forest suddenly and severely became empty. This slope had been logged, far up the mountain, and we ran on a barren brown ridge. Loose dirt filled our shoes and sharp sticks poked our shins and rolled underfoot. I can’t deny that it affected my mood drastically (read: poorly) to be confronted with this stark scene. The change was so dramatic that we were certain we’d lost the way, right up until race day.
After the gnarly climb up to Guksabong, where we ran into a construction crew working on a wooden walkway, we took a second breather at Suwibong. Then, we went straight when the race course went left – and onto one of the craziest ridge runs of my life!
We didn’t take a single photo, which I regret only because I can’t show now how intense it was. With coils of razor wire less than a foot apart on either side of the skinny ridge trail, challenging sections of clinging onto ropes and skidding over loose earth, scrambles over boulders and nowhere to go except backward or forward, this Soyosan access route is definitely NOT for beginners! Never mind the sounds of gunfire as soldiers practiced shooting into the mountain one plunging drop away through the forest…
We reached Soyosan in the last light of the day. And what a day we’d had! We celebrated briefly on the summit before scrambling down in the dark. Maybe now we were ready to tackle one of the toughest 50ks around, again.
Plus, we were feeling good about our spring season. We’d already kicked it off right with a wonderful run at the Cordillera Mountain Ultra. Now, it was time to challenge ourselves again on our third running of the Korea 50k!
The 2018 Korea 50k
April 21st, 2018: We were the most ready we could be, but it still felt crazy lining up under the bright lights of the Dongducheon Stadium, toeing the line of the the 2018 Korea 50k. I was nostalgic for all that had come before, and excited for all that was new! And one of the new things this year was our growing connections to other runners! During check in, we met several people we recognized from the Cordillera. And on race morning, we were suddenly surrounded by friends! So this time, my pre-race nervousness was checked by the warm smiles and banter of our crew.
Hugs, handshakes and good luck wishes all completed, our friends melted into the crowd as we all individually sought out the right places to stand in the start corral. The countdown followed, and then, the race!
We burst out of the stadium into the night. Collectively, we were a rainbow of colors and a cacophony of sounds. I hit the first trail section with none of the trepidation I’d had during my first race or the feeling of extra weight on my back that I’d had in my second. Everything, somehow, felt just right. We ran as the darkness of night lifted and the sky lightened to grey. A little later in the season now, pale pink flowers had started to bloom. Bright green baby leaves and little shoots of grass painted the trail in the fresh shades of spring.
Some more firsts. This time, we had a real race plan, beyond just finishing! Motivated by the brand new silver bell awards, we were aiming for under 11 hours. It was pretty exciting to have a specific goal, and better still that we felt confident that we could complete it. The previous year, we’d run this tough race in 11:03, and we knew we were stronger still this year. To help us meet our goal, we planned to use trekking poles for the first time during a race! We’d been practicing with our sticks during our new mountain mission, and knew just where we wanted to use them during this race.
Comfortable with our position in the pack, we ran up over the first couple of summits and down into the first checkpoint at Huiamsa temple. Some friendly faces were waiting for us there, with cameras and snacks! This was also new to us! It was the first time the aid station friends were actually people we knew, and they cheered us on and took hilarious photos of us. I loved seeing their smiling faces and sharing their positive energy!
On we ran, back into the woods briefly, and then onto the long section of forest road. We planned to run this section quickly, and we did! We spotted the gazebo at the top of the rise, then zipped around the switchbacks to go down, down, down to CP2. There, we grabbed a couple more cucumbers and bananas before setting off again. The next section was the one we’d reserved our poles for!
The climb up, over, down and then back up Wangbangsan’s ridge during the Korea 50k is something I’ve described elsewhere (here and here, if you’re curious!). It had once seemed relentless to me, but no longer. This time, I just used the opportunity to dig in with my poles and climb! As I did so, I realized that this particular section is part of why we keep coming back for more of this race. It’s not just that it’s tough – although we do like tough. It’s the way in which this race is tough. This race is great for developing well-rounded athletic skills, because you can run fast on some sections – and on other sections, you have to climb fast. Here and now, I was resting one set of muscles and working out a completely different set.
Chasing Kent, I whipped over the ridge and down the other side. We blazed through the forest and charged back up. Soon we were standing on the summit. This time, we needed to keep up our pace, so we merely nodded to the peak. Then we plunged back down over the edge.
Much to our surprise, we found ourselves again on the empty slope below the forest, running over the debris of dead trees. It was shocking all over again, only this time we knew for sure that we were going the right way. There were ribbons tied to sticks and poles that traced a trail over the devastation. Luckily, this was a short section, and we were soon on a forest road again, and full of appreciation for that forest!
The forest road took us down to CP3, where we took the opportunity to refill waters and have a brief rest stop. The volunteers here were friendly and helpful, and lots of other runners were scattered around. Some were eating noodles, sitting in the shade. Others blazed through the checkpoint, heading straight back up on the second big climb of the day! Bladders emptied and refilled, as necessary, we followed!
This is another section both Kent and I really enjoy. Leaving Gipieul valley, one has to hopscotch across the river several times on large boulders. It’s also one of the hottest parts of the course: it’s later in the day, low elevation, exposed to the sun and protected from any cooling breezes by the steep ridges on either side of the trail. We all slowed down, humbled by the climb up Guksabong. The last part is in shade along the ridge, but contains the most challenging climb on the approach to the peak: ropes and railings are necessary for navigating over slippery soil on a sharp incline.
At the top, the construction that had been underway during our training run was now complete, and there was a new, beautiful wooden path to run on past the army installation. At the bottom of the winding military access road was a bonus water stop! This was a very welcome surprise and we were happy to top up on water in the middle of the longest stretch of the course.
Then, we just kept running! This time, there was no slowing down. We just went for it. Kent was brimming with energy, and I was feeling both happy and healthy. We passed the turnoff for the slightly dangerous route to Soyosan, and ran down the road, all the way to CP4. This time, finally, we knew where to expect it. The last little bit before it on the road does seem long when you’re eager for that final aid station. But what a relief it is when you make it! This time, CP4 was even more fun than previous years. In addition to the welcoming plastic chairs and iced water spritzers, a merry volunteer greeted runners on a microphone. It was a very fun and happy stop, and we knew we didn’t have far to go after it.
We ran down on the road, admiring some dogs out for a weekend walk. I was surprised by many fast racers appearing seemingly from nowhere and blazing past us until I remembered that this year, the Korea 50k included a 27 kilometer division. We even recognized some volunteers from earlier aid stations, and got to cheer for them as they ran past us!
We climbed up onto the Adeungsan ridge on the way home. It seemed suddenly quiet. For a lot of the race, we’d been surrounded by people. Here, we were alone – and it felt a little like the end of our training run. But not for long. We called on reserves of energy to run up and tag the little watchtower on the summit, then barreled downhill. I love running along that final kilometer, with a bird’s eye view of the finish line in the stadium. The sight, and the music, are incredibly energizing, and it gave us a fresh surge of speed.
Finishing a race with a run around the track is so triumphant. It’s hard not to feel like a winner when you’re blazing around a stadium full of like-minded people cheering you on. I love it every single time. I reached for Kent’s hand and we dashed under that finish line arch once more.
As usual, I had no idea about our time. I’d felt like we’d had a strong finish, and I was pleased as punch about that. That was enough! But Kent proudly pointed to the watch, and I realized, for the first time, that we’d done it! We’d completed the 2018 Korea 50k in 10 hours and 36 minutes! The kind volunteers at the finish line, hung the classic, heavy square medals around our necks, and pointed us towards some tents. There, we were presented with our first speed awards – one shiny silver bell each! To say we were delighted would be a huge understatement.
Afterwards, we lingered in a patch of shade to chat with finishing friends and other folks we knew.
The shadows lengthened and my stomach growled, and before we knew it, two hours had passed! But it was well worth it to stay and spend time with some of our favorites. When we finally left, it was to get some sandwiches! Full of joy and excitement, we couldn’t sleep at first, so we hung out in the little motel room we’ve booked for two nights every year for three years.
Eventually, exhaustion took over and we got some sleep. We would need the rest for the next morning’s ‘active recovery’ Suraksan hike!
Lessons Learned
The 2018 Korea 50k was one of those lucky ones for us: a successful and happy race on a familiar course.
Unlike many of our fellow runners, we did not get lost. We didn’t have any malfunctions, mental, physical or otherwise. We had the chance to test out a new race strategy involving our trekking poles. Somehow, we even got lucky with photos! Although we didn’t take a single picture, our friends and the race photographers did, and we got some great ones!
Kent ran an outstanding race, leading our tiny team from start to finish. And I was proud of my performance: a strong effort from beginning to end. I think all of the hours of winter training in new and surprising conditions had paid off – making us stronger runners. Also, I think training on the course is always a smart idea. Our training run helped us remember all the tricky spots and places where we’ve gotten lost before – so we knew where to focus. It also reminded us about where we could run fast and climb to be the best of our ability, and where to apply our poles.
All in all, it was a glorious day on the trails, and we were both just so happy that we were able to finish it strong and swift!
Interested in running the challenging Korea 50k yourself? Keep an eye on the official website for details about 2019’s event!