Birobong (비로봉)
There was a magic about Odaesan National Park (오대산국립공원). Even the start was memorable. Simply getting to the main entrance required driving through a dense and dark old-growth forest. The forest was filled with the thick trunks of trees at eye-level, rising up into the sky and disappearing into a density of needles that blotted out the morning sun. Finally on foot, the ethereal beauty of the park only increased. We set out on the trail towards Birobong (비로봉), our way marked by carved lanterns and wishing stones.
There were three temples deep in the forest along the trail. One was tiny and quaint, characterized by an abundance of kimchi pots and potted flowers. The second, further up the slope, had buildings on several terraces in photogenic and zen-like perfection. The final temple was a solitary structure reached by climbing a set of stone steps carved with dragons.
From the temples, the trail to the peak ascended gently and on dirt trails fortified with wooden beams. I felt free of my connections to the outside world in the still, silent, solitude. We walked like woodland creatures, in complete harmony with the pristine forest.
Odaesan was a big mountain for us, literally and figuratively. Our ascent of Birobong marked the completion of the mountainous national parks on our list. What a gem we had saved until last! We didn’t see a single soul during our ascent. The forest was everything a forest should be: filled with ancient trees and the rustling of small mammals and the morning songs of birds. It was calm and peaceful, and I felt a deep sense of contentment.
There was something about this mountain that I really connected with. Yet it was so different from our Seoraksan outing the previous day. Seoraksan is all jagged spires and rocky cliff vistas. By contrast, Odaesan is a warm, enveloping forest, right up to its peak. They are geographic neighbors: both mountains being part of the same range, the Baekdudaegan. Yet somehow, they are worlds apart. Maybe I liked the understated nature of this mountain, or maybe my mood matched the ambiance of the green forest.
We made slow, contemplative progress on this hike. We stopped at the temples on the way up, and lingered on the path. There were great pauses for squirrel and bird watching, and drinks from local springs. Eventually, we emerged onto the summit: a rocky prominence set just above a sea of undulating green. On Birobong we met two kindred spirits, who wordlessly passed us a handful of little oranges. They moved on, leaving us on the summit on our own. I sat down with the stele, enjoying it with a breakfast of fruit. Grey clouds hung low over the mountains, and it was refreshingly cool.
After some time spent soaking up the good vibes of Birobong, we carried on along a forested ridge. We shortly arrived at another peak, Sangwongbong, and spent some time there as well. The sun had come out, and all of the butterflies of the forest were arriving at the peaks for some courtship dancing. Rabbits hopped away into the forest shade. We saw, for maybe the first time, definitive evidence for pigs on and alongside the path. There were fresh gouges in the moist dirt, and holes where they had ripped out tasty roots.
Back in the forest, we began our unhurried descent on a forestry road. At the foot of the mountain, we decided to explore another of Odaesan’s temples. This one was down the road, away from the hiking trails, and with some traffic beginning, we opted to take a shuttle bus. We stopped to pay a visit to Woljeongsa temple and discovered an awesome bakery! Victory is a vegan bun, and a perfect walk in the woods.
Know and Go! Odaesan – Birobong
Transportation
Odaesan National Park is reachable by way of Jinbu. Jinbu is a small town between the inland city of Wonju and the coastal city of Gangneung. It’s just off the main expressway, near Pyeongchang and the site of the 2018 Winter Olympics.
From Jinbu, there are public buses into the park. Although the road into the park begins just outside the town, the distance into the park to access the hiking is pretty significant. It’s a scenic road, but taking transit would help you focus your attention and energy on the mountain trails. You could also take an inexpensive taxi if the buses don’t suit your schedule.
Hike & Run
Much of this park is protected wildlife area, and not cut with hiking trails. I think you really have a sense of this wildness when you’re in the park! There are actually three sections of the park: the main entrance, where you can find Birobong and Woljeongsa; Noinbong and the Sogeumgang Valley located northeast of the main entrance; and Gyebangsan, off to the west and not linked with trails.
Birobong is the highest peak in the main part of the park. From the main entrance, there are a few options for summiting this peak. The easiest options are a quick out-and-back via the temples or a little loop over Sangwangbong. You can also make a longer loop over Duryobong or continue on for a significant point-to-point linking Birobong to Noinbong and beyond.
Stay & Eat
You can’t really stay inside Odaesan National Park. But near Odaesan’s main entrance, Jinbu has motels, fruit stands, restaurants and grocery stores. You could also base yourself in Gangneung for more options, but unless you have your own vehicle, you’d be putting yourself at the mercy of a limited bus schedule.
The park’s main entrance does have excellent eateries. Near Woljeongsa, there’s a whole new mountain vegetable village, where you can eat your fill of herbs and roots gathered locally!
If you make a stop at Woljeongsa, I highly recommend Nandana Bakery for their excellent, wholesome and animal-product-free breads and muffins!
Other Notes
The main peak is 1563m Birobong. All of Odaesan’s peaks feature beautiful views over the forest, but this particular peak is on the 100 summits challenge! Click to read the descriptions posted by Black Yak and the Korea Forest Service.
My husband and I climbed Birobong in June 2016. Odaesan was the 14th national park – and last new mountainous national park – that we visited during our mountain mission year. Our hike was a 12.2k small loop over Birobong and Sangwangbong.
I checked out our options for exploring Odaesan National Park on the Korea National Park Service website.
Head back to the main Odaesan National Park page to explore more of my favorite park! And check out some other wonderful mountains in national parks and among the 120 summits.