I was so excited to revisit Odaesan National Park (오대산국립공원). One prior visit had been enough for me to name this park as a favorite. I had a sneaking suspicion I was going to be delighted by Noinbong (노인봉), too. But I did not know that this was going to be one of my favorite peaks – and runs – ever!
The night before our Noinbong run, we drove up to Jingogae pass to check out the start. So, the next morning, all we had to do was go! I strapped on my pack watching the first golden rays of the day illuminate the east-facing peaks on the other side of the pass. It was time to begin!
Noinbong
Not long after we began running, I saw a fair and fluffy shape running ahead of us! It was too small to be a deer – perhaps a wild cat? Once it disappeared, it was the landscape that captured my attention next. We’d reached an area that was naturally open: a high-elevation meadow of long grass and flowers! The trail itself was a beautiful, gently-rolling dirt path, completely free of rocks and roots, snaking its way through the grass. Gorgeous, and totally unlike most of our other trails!
In the east, the early morning sun gave the sky with a surreal red-orange glow. Behind us to the west, its golden light colored more and more of the ridge in the central area of Odaesan.
I had originally been surprised that the peak was so far from the high pass, but 4 kilometers flew by all too fast. The trail was delightfully runnable! We only spent a few minutes in the open meadow, but the majority of the trail was a wide path over rolling terrain. It bypassed the highest points of the ridge, undulating through perfect, pristine woods.
It was so wonderful to run through a forest glowing in the morning light, listening to the birds singing a sweet dawn chorus. I led – but slowly, because I was looking around and loving it.
And then, the peak! Before we knew it, we were 200 meters from the top, bounding up slabs of rock for the first time. Our first view of Noinbong was striking: stunning and unforgettable.
It was impressively prominent, surprising after our run deep in enveloping forest. The summit stele stood tall over folded green ridges in the distance; bathed in gentle morning sun and swaddled with gauzy mist. The sky above was robin’s egg blue and a lone pine cut a dramatic figure immediately behind the stele. It truly took my breath away.
When I finally managed to turn around, I was delighted by the forest all over again: dazzlingly green in the warm sunlight. There were expansive views over distant peaks to the south. And to the east, the sea was shining: rippling little waves reflecting the sun’s light! I’d forgotten that you can see the sea from Odaesan!
I thought fondly about our previous adventure when I’d completely fallen in love with Birobong and the main part of the park. Odaesan is an absolute gem. The dense, pristine forest makes it feel a world apart. The joy of exploring that kind of forest can’t be overstated, and it makes the rocky peaks extra exciting!
But this wasn’t just nostalgia: it was Noinbong! I dropped my bag and poles and scrambled all over it; drinking in each view as much as I could, spinning in giddy circles. Kent seemed to feel the same way, and I think we could have stayed there forever.
I completely lost track of the time. I have no idea how long we lingered on Noinbong, but every moment was well-spent and wonderful. There was a strong breeze blowing that made it cool, almost chilly. But the sun’s rays were warm and golden.
It was incredibly hard to leave, but I did so with a happy heart, full of gratitude. This was one of those times when I felt like, ‘wow, is this my life?’ Sunrise on a remote peak in the middle of Korea’s highest mountains, overlooking the ocean and a sea of clouds – starting a long run with my love. I don’t think it gets any better than that!
The Sogeumgang Valley
As we carried on, I remained excited. We were about to descend the legendary Sogeumgang valley and traverse the park! It had been a hard sell, convincing Kent to abandon the rental car and do a point-to-point ending in the middle of nowhere (especially after our experience the previous weekend!). But this was my dream: something I’ve wanted to do for years and years, so luckily, he agreed.
Coming down from the peak, we quickly came upon a small, unmanned shelter: unique in Korea! Beyond was wilderness, deep in the heart of Odaesan National Park, and little traveled! We headed along a ridge for a while, then plunged down a series of steep steps, watching the main ridge rise away above us. We found ourselves in another flat, natural meadow, listening to the trickling sounds of water. This was the birthplace of the Sogeumgang!
The river appeared seemingly out of nowhere, flowing from under some rocks. We cupped the cool water in our hands and splashed it onto our faces. It was cool and refreshing and delightful. The feeling it left on my skin lingered. We paused again at a nearby waterfall, soaking in some positive ions.
This was the first of many gorgeous falls and pools along the trail! The excellent national park signage was constantly informing us about the next amazing sight – usually a waterfall, but sometimes a special rock or pond.
We ran down with the growing river always at our side. I loved the sound of it splashing away down beside us, and stole glances at it as we ran. I was amazed by how lush and wet it this forest was! Many trickles of water came in over rocks to either side, adding to the swelling stream.
Bridges over the river offered great views that made me think about abandoning our mission and just leaping into the water! The valley went on and on: it was 10 kilometers from the peak to the paved road, which is part of the reason it’s so famous.
The walls of the valley narrowed and got steeper the further we descended. There were unusual rock formations, charismatic trees and bridge after exciting bridge! Pools filled with fresh water sparkled in a rainbow of colors. Above, it was all green and gold in the forest. Below, parts of the valley were so deep in shadow that boulders appeared blue.
Alas, it did not go on forever, like I’d kinda hoped it might. We eventually emerged from the forest into civilization. People were picnicking in the river, and there were some little restaurants and a campground. We continued to run downhill, now on the road.
And a few extras!
Although we had to leave the Sogeumgang behind, we still had about an hour to go on our run. We figured we’d just run to the highway over two small passes out of the valley. It was the perfect chance to pick up the pace, no longer constantly distracted by the scenery! Our movement became slightly more utilitarian on this quiet, scenic road!
On the other side of the highway, we spotted a sign pointing towards a temple. It was 1.6k away, and up a hill. Perfect. We ran up that hot, hot hill and collapsed on a bench outside the main hall to guzzle down the last of our water. We left hilarious butt prints and sprinkles of sweat when we stood up again. Our run was finished – and what a run! All we had to do was jog downhill to a convenience store – where cold drinks awaited us.
There, a kind worker helped us call a taxi to take us back to the top of the pass. We chatted merrily all the way there, buzzed on a successful and beautiful mountain mission. Even our driver liked it: he gave us a discount and took a rest at Jingogae.
What an adventure! And it wasn’t even noon! So, we hit the seaside in Gangneung! On Anmok beach, we rented an umbrella right at the water’s edge. We plopped down on our picnic blanket and had the most magical of afternoons: lounging, looking at the sea, and splashing in the water. Kent also crushed me at a beachside game of crib. We stayed until lifeguards told everyone to leave. On our way home, we stopped to say hello to Gyeongpo Provincial Park (an old favorite), wrapping up this perfect day.
Know and Go! Noinbong
Transportation
Noinbong is somewhat more remote than Birobong and the main parts of the park. To my knowledge, there is no direct bus to Jingogae or the bottom of the Sogeumgang Valley. We really wanted to explore both, and the freedom to do it on our own schedule. So we rented a car!
However, if that’s not for you, there are other ways to explore Noinbong. It’s definitely possible to take a taxi to Jingogae (first-hand knowledge – we did this too!).
So first, you’re probably going to want to get yourself over to Jinbu. This is the closest town to Odaesan National Park, and it’s easy enough to get to. You can take a bus or a train to Jinbu.
Gangneung is a little far-flung for this mission – but from there you could transfer onto one of the local buses that traverses the quiet #6 highway north of Odaesan National Park. From there you have access to the Sogeumgang trail, plus local food and accommodations.
Alternatively, from Gangneung you can take a taxi anywhere you want! The advantage of the big city is that it has lots of taxis (if you strike out with one driver because you want to go far, you can just ask another one)!
Hike & Run
You want to go for the point-to-point here. It’s a study in contrasts. Noinbong has breathtaking views of its surroundings, while the Sogeumgang valley is equal parts spectacular and peaceful. It’s a longish traverse, but it is truly one of the best. I can’t recommend it highly enough.
If time or mobility constraints are a factor, the shortest way to Noinbong is an 8 kilometer out-and-back. It’s not overly strenuous because you start from the high pass at Jingogae – and the trails from there to the peak are mild.
On the other side of the mountain, the trail up the Sogeumgang valley is 10 kilometers long one-way. It offers much more elevation gain than the trail from Jingogae pass, but is steepest closest to the peak.
The trail that links the Jingogae pass to the Sogeumgang Valley is currently the only open trail on the east side of Odaesan National Park.
But, if you want to do a really long point-to-point, you could start in the main part of the park, summit Birobong first and then head over to Noinbong!
Stay & Eat
There are no motels, but there are lots of other options for accommodation around the Sogeumgang Valley. I have not spent the night in this area, but we ran past many places offering rooms for rent in a beautiful, tranquil setting. However, you might need to brush up on your Korean (and/or charades) skills.
Closer to Noinbong, there are fewer options. There are a couple of pensions on the road leading to Jingogae, but you’ll need both you own wheels and a strong command of the local language to sort that out. If you’ve got both, I bet this would be a lovely spot to stay!
There once was a rest stop on Jingogae, and I can’t imagine why it closed. When we visited, it was a bustling place that definitely could have supported a business or two! Plenty of people were enjoying the sunset – and the cool evening air! We saw people both cooking and camping – so that’s an option! I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this because it is by no means an official campsite, but it is done!
Options for eats near Noinbong are limited. I’d pack a picnic for the peak! On the Sogeumgang side, there are mountain vegetable restaurants where the trail meets the road. We were still running so we didn’t have a chance to sample any of these, unfortunately! But I bet they’re delicious!
As mentioned in the transportation section above, if you’re using public transit, your best bets might be to stay in Jinbu (for a Noinbong climb from Jingogae) or Gangneung (for Sogeumgang explorations). Based in either of those locations, you have access to the simplicity of motels, marts and more choices. Not to mention taxis for onward travel!
Other Notes
Beautiful Noinbong is part of the Black Yak 100 summits list, available online here.
Kent and I visited this mountain in July of 2018. We did a 24 kilometer run over Noinbong – and about 14 of those kilometers were on national park trails. We started at Jingogae and finished at Baekunsa, a temple across the #6 highway from Odaesan National Park.
Click to return to the Odaesan National Park main page for more adventures in this pretty park!
To explore more marvelous mountains, head back to the 120 summits main page, or check out the national parks in Korea!