I insisted that we return to Gyeongju National Park (경주국립공원), and climb Namsan (경주남산) again. In what was an incredibly busy year, Kent wondered about the necessity of revisiting a place we’d already been. It was 2018, and we were on our 120 mountains mission. Yes, we’d once stood atop this summit – but that was in 2014, long before our mountain mission(s) began. So in my books, yes, another Namsan outing was, in fact, a necessary part of our mission!
In fact, it was especially important to me, considering how we’d managed to miss Namsan every time we’d been to Gyeongju since 2014! In 2016, for example, we were in Gyeongju multiple times. Although we’d planned to climb Namsan then, for various reasons we’d failed. Tight schedules for racing plus social obligations plus poor weather don’t always make for great mountain expeditions.
So in late 2018, we made a point of going back to Gyeongju. After all, it is my favorite city in Korea for a reason! I have terrific memories of wanderings in the vast outdoor museum that makes up the town, as well as climbing the mountain. I was thrilled to return. And thrilled to focus specifically on Namsan!
On a Friday night in November, we hit the road in a rental car. It was our new normal: working all day and then driving all night to get a head start on the weekend’s adventures. After making it to Gyeongju, we checked into our favorite motel right beside the tumulus park and fell immediately asleep in a big, comfy bed.
After a short sleep, we woke up before dawn; eager to beat the crowds into the national park. We had a special workout on the books: a two hour run containing two 20 minute tempo intervals. This promised to be tough, but we had the perfect place to do it: I’d scoped a dirt road, open only to foot traffic, that meandered up the backside of Namsan.
We parked near an entrance on the west side of the mountain, and started running right away. As we warmed up for the first 30 minutes or so, we appreciated the convenience of the road and nice forest to either side. The sun was rising through the trees, and we had to resist the temptation head off on various little trails to Buddhas and observation decks. Although focused on the workout, I felt a little tired and unsure that I could find another gear for the tempo part of the workout.
But when the time came, I dug deep and managed to find some speed. I burst ahead of Kent (for a minute) and clawed my way uphill, then zipped down the other side. We sped past the steps leading to the summit and a dramatic pagoda I recognized, and then plunged down deep into the shady forest on the east side. Running on the road, we bypassed the gnarly climbing available on Namsan’s trails.
Our workout plan worked perfectly: we timed our last interval to finish at the steps to Geumobong, the summit. We surprised two other hikers at the top, who were wearing backpacks and thick down jackets. They were concerned about our welfare, but we explained that we were running and thus okay in our light attire.
We spent some time alone with the cozy summit of Namsan, reminiscing and recreating old photos before finishing our workout.
But because it’s hard to stick strictly to a workout plan when you’re on a mountain mission, we decided to take a trail turnoff that would make a little loop and take us past some relics. We visited a lookout with great views of Geumobong and Namsan’s rugged ridge.
Then we ran back down the mountain, enjoying an unassuming temple and some gentle waterfalls over the flat rock surfaces that characterize this mountain. Our parking lot at the base was now full of tour buses. Kent, being an honest chap, paid for our parking spot when we exited. We drove home with the seat warmers on and then hopped in the shower.
What followed our Namsan run was a perfect day of relaxation, exactly as I’d hoped. We sat in the tumulus park for a while, played games at an arcade, and enjoyed a nighttime stroll through city. I’m always grateful to be in Gyeongju – and, on this trip, delighted to return to Namsan!
KNOW AND GO! NAMSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Namsan is just outside of Gyeonju, making for very easy access to this mountain! Gyeonju is a major city with numerous train and bus connections around South Korea. From Seoul or Busan, the fastest way to get to Gyeongju is via the KTX train. The Gyeongju KTX station is a ten-minute taxi or bus ride away from both the mountain and the city.
HIKE & RUN
There are innumerable trails on Namsan, and for good reason. The mountain slopes contain many treasures from the region’s rich past. It’s well-worth exploring beyond the summit of Geumobong. Almost any turn will take you to a special sight. And because this is a national park, there’s usually a plaque so you can learn as you go!
At this major domestic tourist destination, don’t be surprised to find yourself sharing the trail with dozens or even hundreds of others on holidays and weekends. Come prepared to share snacks and wait in line for photo ops! Alternatively, visit the mountain on a weekday, in the off-season or at the margins of the day to have more space to yourself.
And don’t forget that you’ve got additional options while you’re here! Explore the outdoor museum that forms Gyeongju’s city center, filled with pleasant parks and unmistakable burial mounds. Or head for the hills on the other side of the city, where you can climb Gyeonju’s highest peak, Tohamsan!
STAY & EAT
Thanks to its proximity to the city, you have no shortage of options when visiting Namsan. Gyeongju has a full range when it comes to choosing accommodation. Similarly, Gyeongju is a hub that experiences lots of tourism, so it has a growing range of dining options as well.
OTHER NOTES
Namsan is on both lists of 100 famous summits in Korea. You can find Namsan on the Black Yak list here, and the Korea Forest Service list here.
Namsan is truly a must-visit mountain. Hiking this mountain is a treasure hunt experience: you never know what ruins or Buddha statues lie just around the corner! Although the summit doesn’t boast big views, there are a ton of scenic viewpoints that do (many of them with incredible pagodas).
I visited this mountain most recently in November 2018. Kent and I did a tempo workout and climbed Geumobong peak. We first visited the mountain in 2013 and the peak in 2014.
More on Gyeongju? I’ve got you covered on the Gyeongju National Park main page. Other options: head directly to an urban adventure here – or check out Tohamsan, Gyeonju’s other famous mountain!
To explore more pretty peaks, visit the 120 summits main page, or check out more national parks in Korea!
