After spending several weeks not doing mountain missions, it felt great to return to it. It was summertime: no better time to go exploring! Unjangsan (운장산) – and Gubongsan (구봉산) beyond – seemed to hold great promise. Even packing up and picking up the car on Saturday was exciting! And everything just worked out perfectly from there on out.
On Saturday night, we spent the night in a riverside hotel near Jinan – one of my favorite places in Korea and of Maisan fame. The morning of our Unjangsan climb, we first drove up to the 500m Piam Mokjae pass and parked the car. I patted a sweet mamma dog, and Kent said he was relieved that someone would be looking after it for us 🙂
Although this canine appeared to be the only being around, there was one other car parked in the vast lot. It seemed surprising because the Piam Mokjae rest stop is long closed, the road little used and even the farms and villages below seemed silent. But we later found what must have been the driver’s red tent in one of the most scenic camping locations ever!
We began our climb at first light. On this morning we were hiking, not running, because this was a sizeable ascent – largely on dirt steps at first. We climbed up onto one of Unjangsan’s ridges, following nice signposts and maps.
After a few glimpses into the valley below, we were suddenly enveloped by a cloud. Pale sunlight filtered through, lighting the forest in a pretty and surreal way. There were thick growths of thousand meter plant below tall deciduous trees, all slightly faded in the fog.
It took us about an hour of steady effort to gain Unaksan’s high ridge. When we emerged onto that first peak, what a sight we beheld! It was ethereal, truly otherworldly in its beauty.
Emerging form the forest, we had dramatic views over the plunging cliffs to our right. But it was the saddle between this peak and the next that was most captivating. Here, cotton candy clouds climbed the ridge and spilled over into the valley below, filtering the bright morning sunlight and streaming as quickly and dramatically as a waterfall. It was mesmerizing!
I stood entranced for several minutes before making my way up to the rocky summit for another angle. This was Seobong, or Chilseongdae, and it was the most magical peak of the day!
But we were just getting started with peaks, so, when the sun disappeared completely behind the cloud, we dipped back into the forest and carried on – albiet briefly! The main peak, Unjangdae, was only 600 meters away.
Unjangdae featured a huge, shapely, brand new stele and a little weather station kit! There was also more of the welcoming and generally excellent Jinan-gun signage. After some of our usual celebrations on Unjangsan’s cozy peak, we proceeded.
Again, we did not go very far before we reached another of Unjangsan’s many summits! Dongbong – aka Samjangbong – was just another 600 meters down the ridge. Here we popped up above the foliage again onto a rocky summit, and had great views looking back at our first two peaks! When the clouds swirled in low overhead, they provided the perfect backdrop for spotting dragonflies, which were out in full force on this beautiful day!
These quick-moving clouds didn’t linger long, and they pulled back to reveal gorgeously clear vistas and constantly changing light. Down we went for the longest section between peaks. The trail mostly followed Unjangsan’s undulating ridge.
The constant ups and downs, combined with the incredibly dense foliage that had grown over the trail made for slow going. There were sections where we were absolutely plowing through a thick jungle! I held my poles in front of me like I was driving some sort of trail train. But my feet could always find the way, even when my eyes couldn’t. And we were happy to be having a wilderness experience on this gorgeous summer day!
Eventually, we emerged onto a (surprising!) forest road, then it was straight back up and back into the bush. I had been in the lead all day, and at some point here I lost Kent. Not for long though: at the next rocky outcrop, we were reunited!
Next up was our surprise mountain: Gomjikisan! It did not have its own stele, but instead, someone had lovingly painted its name on one of the lovely solar lamp pillars that we’d seen all along the trail. It wasn’t rocky like Unjangsan’s peaks: this was more of a rounded, grassy crest, but it had great views in every direction. I could see the crags of the peaks we’d already climbed, and the antenna of the weather station we expected to find on the next official peak.
Back into the forest we went, past a nice gazebo and across another forest road before we arrived at Bokdubong. This summit is technically part of Unjangsan, but fairly far from the main peak by this point! This was another rocky vantage point, and here we had amazing views over the undulating green sea we’d just traveled through. Two kilometers away, Gubongsan was lost in low, puffy clouds that were just out of reach.
We lingered long on Bokdubong, enjoying the sun on our exposed skin after so many weeks of rain and clouds. I was absolutely basking in the heat! We watched the clouds coming and going over the landscape, the dragonflies flitting here and there overhead, and listened to the songs of tropical-sounding birds. It was paradise, I’m telling you. We could not have asked for a better day, and I was having the time of my life.
KNOW AND GO! UNJANGSAN
TRANSPORTATION
The closest city to Unjangsan is Jeonju, capital of the North Jeolla province. From Jeonju’s train station, you can take a direct bus to Sabong village on the western slopes of the mountain. Look for bus 871 and expect to spend just over an hour on board. If coming from the express bus terminal, catch bus 79 to the train station to connect.
To reach a slightly shorter trail to the summit, take an intercity bus from Jeonju to Jinan (or straight to Jinan from your area, if you can!), and catch the bus bound for Naecheosa to Piam Mukjae pass. Yes, this is a 2.5 hour journey on public transportation. The upshot is that you’ll tour nearly the whole mountain en route!
There are many more trails on the southeastern slopes of Unjangsan. To reach these trailheads, take the bus bound for Uicheosa from Jinan. This bus will deposit you on highway 725 in Jeongcheon village, but there’s a trail starting right here! There are also trails from the northeastern side of the mountain – but these are even more remote. To reach Jucheon/Juyang village, you’ll need to take an intercity bus from Jinan.
Driving to Unmunsan will save you time, especially if you’re looking to do a longer adventure involving one of the more remote trailheads! However, you’ll then also have to return to your car, either on foot or by ironing out some logistics in advance. This is what we did, and I’m glad of it, but it wasn’t without complications!
HIKE & RUN
Hiking and running on Unjangsan are awesome. Adventuring on this mountain is highly, highly recommended. There are long trails! Multiple peaks to visit! Vistas to be seen!
The shortest access to the summit is from Piam Mukjae pass on the north side of Unjangsan – that trail is just 2.2 kilometers long. Another quick climb is a three kilometer use trail starting in Bonghak village just south of the mountain near Jinan.
But you don’t want to the shortest trail on Unjangsan, do you? If you want the best experience, I’d like to recommend our route. We started from Piam Mokjae pass on highway 55, traversed Unmungsan and Gubongsan and ended on highway 725.
Do not miss Seobong/Chilseongdae – especially at dawn! Plus, there’s Dongbong/Samjeongbong: actually slightly higher than Unjangsan proper at 1133m! Beyond Dongbong is still more ridge – and more peaks!
STAY & EAT
Unjangsan is a destination mountain, so staying and eating here will not be a problem. If you like to camp, stake out a site in Unjangsan Natural Recreation Forest. There’s a few pensions in this area as well. Additional pensions are scattered around the perimeter of Unjangsan. There’s also camping and a couple of room rentals on the Jucheon/Juyang side of the mountain.
If you’re looking for more options, stay in Jinan, where you can drop into a motel or a supermarket. Or make Jeonju your transit hub, but if you do, plant-based friends take note: avoid the bibimbap here, because the rice is made with meat stock!
OTHER NOTES
Unjangsan is a huge 1126 meters, and a beautiful mountain to boot. Thanks to its many splendors, Unjangsan is on the Korea Forest Service 100 summits list – which you can check out here – and the Black Yak 100 summits list – which is here!
Kent and I ran a happy 15 kilometers taking in both Unjangsan and Gubongsan in July 2018. You definitely want to check out Gubongsan as well!
Would you care to return to the 120 summits main page? More adventures await you!
I loved Unjangsan – and I know you will too!