Sinbulsan (신불산)

The second half of our Yeongnam Alps adventure continued with a climb to Baenaebong! We were en route to Sinbulsan (신불산), but not in any particular hurry.

A photograph of Carrie and Kent, posing with raised fists to either side of the Baenaebong summit stele. The sun is from behind, so they, and the face of the stele, are in shadow, but the snow shines brightly on the ground around them.
Baenaebong!

We encountered more people on the western side of the cirque – or later in the morning, or perhaps both. But Kent and I both noticed that everyone we encountered was extremely friendly. Many of the hikers we met spoke English with us at length, asking questions about our mountain mission. Sinbulsan, and perhaps Gyeongsangnamdo in general, seems to be populated by very nice folks!

A portrait of the author, leaning forward and grinning from her perch clinging to the Ganwolsan summit stele.
Ganwolsan!

Up next, there was a lovely long lovely ridge to Ganwolsan! We were circling south now, and could see Sinbulsan ahead – and Jaeyaksan across the valley! In the tall grass prairie on the ridge, we ran into another huge picnic area, including a bustling shelter!

Sinbulsan reminded me of Daecheongbong a bit. It was a wide open peak area that didn’t feel crowded even with dozens of hikers up top. There were many places to relax, including great observation decks – and what a place to do so! This mountain range is one of Korea’s best, and everything from its scenic peaks to its open grasslands to its rest areas seem to be designed to entice the hiker into staying.

A selfie featuring the author in the background, husband in the foreground, and a tall, cylindrical stone sculpture that decorates the top of Sinbulsan!
Sinbulsan!

We’d reached Sinbulsan, but our day was not quite finished. There was one more peak remaining in the Alps, and we never leave one behind. It was on to Yeongchuksan!

A photograph of the golden grass characteristic of the high, broad ridges of the Yeongnam Alps. The trail is a wooden walkway running in a straight line to the saddle and up the next rise.

Finally, we could really linger. We’d made our way around the cirque and were ready to celebrate it! We took our time on Yeongchuksan, the last of our Yeongnam Alps peaks, making local friends and sharing snacks in a classic mountaintop experience.

A selfie of the author at the foot of the Yeongchuksan summit stele. This is a close-up of the author's face and large stone stele.
Yeongchuksan!

Heading down, we continued to take our time and savor the Alps. We were enticed into a can of coke by (yet another) friendly local, this time the proprietor of a mountain snacks shop with a view!

A snapshot of Kent seated at a table below fluttering hiking flags. He's looking back towards the low, makeshift cafe building and other tables behind.
Charming ‘lil cafe

But we were still hungry from our exploits, so afterwards we zipped the rest of the way downhill and immediately sat down to a feast at one of Habuk’s dozens of mountain restaurants.

A photograph of a feast. In Korean mountain cuisine, multiple locally harvested vegetables are prepared uniquely and presented on individual plates. Here we can see various kinds of fungi and greens as side dishes supporting the mains of bibimbap and grilled burdock root.
A feast to remember, post-Sinbulsan

Stomachs thus satisfied, we paid a wonderful visit to Tongdosa Temple, which was a positive delight good vibes and striking scenery! A nun told me that “flowers envy a pretty girl” while selecting a beaded bracelet for me (that I’ve worn everyday since). Such a sweet ending to our Sinbulsan and Yeongnam Alps expedition!

KNOW AND GO! SINBULSAN

TRANSPORTATION

The highest peak in the Yeongnam Alps, Sinbulsuan is just a hop, skip and a jump away from Ulsan in South Gyeongsang province! Not based in Ulsan? No worries – this city has a KTX station and a bus terminal, so it’s easily accessible from other parts of the peninsula.

From the KTX station, a 20 minute ride on bus 13 will have you at the western-most trail up Sinbulsan. Or, take the 304 for 25 minutes to start from the northwest. See? Getting to Sinbulsan is a snap!

There are other trailheads, too. For example, if you’re camping, you might be based in the valley that runs through the center of the Yeongnam Alps. In that case, catch bus 328 from Ulsan station for a journey of just over an hour. Or, take an intercity bus directly to Tongdosa for a temple and trek experience!

Driving or hiring a taxi will save you time, but isn’t really necessary here, thanks to Sinbulsan’s accessible location. And recall that the best option for reaching Sinbulsan is on foot – explore the rest of the Yeongnam Alps while you’re in the area!

HIKE & RUN

Here’s what you should do: run or hike the whole Haneul Eoksae trail! This is a high loop taking in the multiple rocky peaks and grassy plateaus of the Yeongnam Alps. Sinbulsan makes a great start/end point, thanks to its proximity to the city!

A photograph of the Yeongnam Alps trail map, including Jaeyaksan on the eastern side (left).
Oh, the places you can go – in the Yeongnam Alps!
Maps in Korea don’t always follow the north is up convention.
Sinbulsan is in the pink section.

There are multiples routes up and down Sinbulsan, with the trails from Dungeok village offering the most direct options – plus the chance to climb Ganwolsan en route. Start further north, and take in Baenaebong peak and maybe even Odusan! Or head south for more mountain action on Yeongchuksan.

STAY & EAT

Go for the peaks, stay for the food! There’s mountain cuisine near every major trailhead, so you gotta go for it. Sample the greens in Habuk village and try the apples from Eurum valley. You can also stock up on snacks in Ulsan – remember to bring extra for sharing!

A photograph of a slice of banana bread prior to its inhalation, resting on a rocky boulder at the top of Yeongchuksan. Sinbulsan rises above the golden grass prairies in the saddle between the two peaks.
That time when I brought a slice of vegan banana bread all the way from Seoul and saved it to the very end of a mountain mission…so, so sweet.

Camping abounds in this area. Two sites on the Danjang stream on the west side of Sinbulsan might appeal, although there are others both north and south of here on highway 69! There’s more camping available in Dungeok, which seems to be the official Yeongnam Alps village.

As for pensions: there are numerous options in the central valley, up and down highway 69. You can also find a handful in Dungeok. You could also opt to stay near Tongdosa.

We stayed near the KTX station in Ulsan after our late arrival – but really liked our snazzy new motel that was just a short walk away!

OTHER NOTES

At 1159 meters, Sinbulsan is the heighest summit in the Yeongnam Alps. It’s a well-known and well-loved mountain, represented on both of Korea’s 100 summits lists. The Korea Forest Service listing for Sinbulsan can be found here and the Black Yak listing is over here.

Kent and I did a rad, 31 kilometer run from Jaeyaksan to Sinbulsan in March of 2018. We saw, but did not yet know about the connections to, Unmunsan and Gajisan!

More missions? The 120 summits main page has the peaks you seek!

But no need to hurry – enjoy Sinbulsan and the Yeongnam Alps!

A photograph of the author jumping for joy on Sinbulsan! She's striking a star pose in the air beside the large Sinbulsan summit marker!

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