A familiar mountain face. A journey into our past – and our future. It was late November 2017, and we were running the well-worn route between Cheonggyesan (청계산) and Gwanggyosan (광교산). I’ve nicknamed this the ‘summits over the city route’ – and it was here that Kent and I got our start in the mountains of Korea.
In 2014, we lived near the base of Gwanggyosan. We’d completed a couple of marathons, and had grand plans of setting off to Nepal for a month of trekking when our contracts were up. To get ready for that, and to challenge ourselves anew, we began to explore the mountains near our home.
We’d first climbed our neighborhood mountain in 2013, actually, while visiting a friend who lived in the area before we did. In 2014, we were there every weekend. A regular routine was established: we’d bike along the river to the trail-head, stash our bikes and climb to the top. But those hikes seemed to only stoke our curiosity. The trail did not stop at the peak. Where did it go? We decided we had to know.
That summer, every weekend we’d go a bit further on the trail. We’d come down in different neighborhoods to explore and then find our way home. Eventually we walked all the way to Cheonggyesan! As our adventures grew longer and longer, we started to see ourselves a little differently. Previously, we’d defined ourselves as road runners and cyclists who loved nature. We’d done our workouts on the pavement, and then relaxed in the forest. That was all changing now.
Back then, we weren’t running in the mountains yet. Running was reserved for those weekday 5k’s along the river and some weekend long runs. We’d hike Gwanggyosan at a relaxed pace, wearing huge backpacks filled with enough sandwiches and water to stay out from dawn til dusk. We were content just to be on the trail. Trail running would come later.
By the end of that year, we were mountain people. We’d been transformed: there was nowhere else we’d rather be. Our local climbs inspired us into tackling bigger challenges: in autumn of 2014, we climbed Korea’s big three mountains: Hallasan, Jirisan and Seoraksan. All of these days in Korea’s mountains prepared us well for our Annapurna adventure, and years of other mountain adventures that would follow.
So, returning to this particular trail in 2017 was a special treat. It felt like a homecoming. This adventure would marry a familiar route with our new running ways. And, we’d be traveling in the reverse direction to get new views of old sights!
Cheonggyesan also has the distinction of being the first mountain we’d climbed (again) since learning about the 100 summits challenge. We had not officially committed yet to scaling every peak on the list, but we were awfully tempted. Already in Seoul for the weekend, we decided this trail warranted a revisit. It would give us a peek into the kinds of mountains that were on the list.
We started our 2017 adventure before dawn, taking a taxi from our motel to the main trail-head. Recognizing the trail instantly, we ran uphill by the light of our headlamps. This being such an urban setting, we were surprised to find ourselves completely alone on the mountain slopes. But, the silence seemed a wonderful gift; one I did not take for granted.
The trail was a simple ribbon leading through the forest and eventually up a series of numbered stairs.
We made it to the top long before sunrise. Unable to remember how easy or challenging our ~25 kilometer route was, we thought we’d better start early. Turns out, we were really early – too early even for photos!
But we had the whole day ahead of us. Even before the sky showed signs of brightening, it wasn’t quite dark. The orange glow of the city below spread over the lower slopes of the forest. It was beautiful in its own way – a contrast to the inky nights and remote peaks of our home in Gangwondo.
We headed off down the ridge past the peak. The sky lightened in increments until we finally could turn off our headlamps and look beyond our shoes. Orange leaves carpeted the forest floor, with a few left clinging to the branches of trees.
Some movement in a clearing ahead alerted us to the fact that we were not actually alone on the ridge this morning. There was a mountain cat, prowling around up there with us! It was extremely friendly and accepted many pats. For the first time, I sort of regretted that we don’t go do our mountain missions carrying little dried fish or something. But this cat looked well-fed. We suspected him of taking advantage of the mountain-top vendors that line the ridge in the daylight hours.
The morning continued to brighten as we ran on to Isubong. But the warmth built slowly, and I kept my mittens on. We were following the Uiwang heart mountain signs that we recognized.
It wasn’t until Guksabong that we saw the sun. Finally, a little warm golden light! In my mind, this is where Cheonggyesan ends. That’s because immediately after this peak, the trail descends to a pass. On the other side of a dramatic pedestrian bridge spanning Haogogae, the trail continues, now heading towards Gwanggyosan.
As we began this descent, a thick orange mist completely enveloped the trail. It was pretty magical! I ran down to the bridge in the unusual light, chasing my husband and reminiscing about all the times we’d climbed up this way.
Our saffron-hued run continued. I noticed more details on the signs and in the scenery. All of the mountains we’d explored between then and now, and all of the running we’d done seemed to have made me sharper; more attuned to and at home in the forest.
This fun trail undulates over a series of mountain peaks. It’s easy and pretty runnable from start to finish, so we both got kind of lost in our thoughts and in the rhythm of our movement. The crisp fall air was perfect for running: constant motion kept us warm and cool breezes pulled any sweat from our skin. We ate and drank only occasionally.
Now, approaching the popular peak of Gwanggyosan and well into mid-morning, we began to see groups of hikers on the trail. While I’d appreciated the serenity of having the trail all to ourselves until this point, the colorful crowds and cries for maekgeolli were exactly what I recalled about this area, and just right.
We lingered on Gwanggyosan a little longer than previous peaks, climbing up on the rocks where we’d had many a picnic in years past. Looking out over the urban sprawl, we wondered again whether or not we could see the tall building where we used to live. The sun felt warm now, and we were half tempted to sprawl away the afternoon on these high rocks.
Instead, we ran down towards Suwon. The soft dirt trail made for a simple, speedy descent, and we reveled in it. Until we realized we were about to run out of maekgeolli stops – and then we stopped short. It had been a long time since Kent had a mountain maekgeolli, and this seemed like just the right opportunity!
Under a colorful tent, we were treated to repeated offers of food – everything from raw onions to those little dried fish to cookies – as Kent sipped his drink. He was especially funny for the remainder of our descent!
Know and Go! Cheonggyesan
Transportation
Never was a mountain more conveniently located! Except perhaps Bukhansan, Namsan, Namhansan or Gwanaksan. This is one of those awesome mountains located right in the Seoul metro area; a short subway journey away from anywhere!
Cheonggyesan actually has it’s own subway station on the red Bundang line. The major trail-heads start and end here (there is also one less-accessible trail-head near the Yangjae station to the north).
Hike & Run
The maps show several trails to and from the summit, but you’ll only need one. The main trail to the top hits Maebawi and then Maebong – the main (accessible peak). It’s a quick climb up, too, at just around 3 kilometers. (My apologies that the maps below don’t actually show the climb up!)
However, if you’re up for more fun, you should definitely consider trekking (or running!) along the ridge that connects Cheonggyesan to Gwanggyosan! There are also options to connect Cheonggyesan to Namhansanseong via Seongnam on a network of dullegil trails (see map #2).
Stay & Eat
Between the mountain and the subway station, you will find not only a wealth of restaurants and food stands, but a sea of shops offering up all the hiking apparel one could ever need or want. That’s the plus side. The downside is that there don’t seem to be any motels or even minbaks in this area. There’s a brand new housing development close to the station, and this kind of neighborhood has little to offer an overnight visitor.
That being said, there’s no real reason for you to stay at the foot of this mountain. If you’re coming from out of town, stay with friends or in your favorite neighborhood instead! Cheonggyesan is an easy day hike. Even the trail to Gwanggyosan is at most a one-day effort.
Other Notes
Cheonggyesan is on the Black Yak 100 mountains list, online here.
We did a self-supported KnC adventure of just over 23k kilometers, running south from Cheonggyesan to Gwanggyosan. Gwanggyosan is not on either summit list – but is nonetheless awesome. I highly recommend the route between the two summits in either direction.
There is some discrepancy about the height of this peak. I think it stems from the fact that the main peak is actually part of a military base and as such, is off limits. It may very well be the reported 618 meters, but hikers visit Maebong instead, which is 582 meters.
Visit Korea has this short write-up about Cheonggyesan for you as well.
Want more of Korea’s marvelous mountains? Head back to the 120 summits main page now!