Get me to the mountain! Thailand by UTMB 21k

My endurance was tested just getting to the starting line of Thailand by UTMB. But it was partly my own damn fault, for registering last minute for a new race in a new country.

An official race photograph of the author navigating the river crossing during the Inthanon 1 race of the 2021 Thailand by UTMB.

Thailand by UTMB was like a steeplechase race for me. To get to the line, I needed to negotiate a host of hurdles. Yet when I finally made it – which I did! – it was everything I hoped it would be. I’d been away from the Asian trail running scene for exactly two years. Here, in a tidy bundle, was absolutely everything I loved about it, and in a new country to boot!

Ready…or not!

By the time I’d decided I was moving to Thailand, it was less than three weeks before race day. I didn’t know this race existed when I booked my flight to BKK! But I was moving there partially to run, so when I learned of Thailand by UTMB, I went for it! There were few options left: I could only register for the 10k fun run or Inthanon 1 – a 24 kilometer loop. I chose the latter.

A snapshot of the author at Bangkok's Don Mueang airport, posing in front of a bon voyage sign prior to departure for Chiang Mai.

I snuck in one of the very last registrations for Inthanon 1 and nabbed a flight to Chiang Mai. But I quickly found myself in a familiar limbo. Neither a local nor a pro, I had a handful of issues that I couldn’t figure out on my own – and nobody was on retainer to help me, either.

My first challenge was submitting a medical check. Let me level with you, dear reader: I have not always had funds for or access to authentic medical checks. But here I was on my own, living in a new country, and I thought I would try to do the right thing.

But, none of the healthcare providers I contacted could help. The online services turned me down because they couldn’t do a complete cardio workup digitally (fair). The international clinics were booking in-person meetings weeks out, this being near the height of Omicron hysteria. I was to blame too: I was intimidated by the local clinics — the long wait times and language barriers I was all but promised by well-meaning advisors.

In the end, I asked my sister, a medical professional in Canada, to sign off on my paperwork. However, by the time I’d gotten ink on paper, the deadline for the medical form had long since passed. I could not upload my form onto the official race website.

So, I thought I’d call someone on the Thailand by UTMB race staff. And oh, how I tried! Whenever I wasn’t actively working or working out, I was calling, typing emails and sending messages: all to completely no avail. Eventually I gave up, deciding that I’d bring my paperwork with me to the start line.

A photograph of the large welcome sign at Doi Inthanon National Park -Thailand by UTMB headquarters!

And how would I get there? I’d hoped to take advantage of the advertised shuttle service, but also failed leap that hurdle in time. Not to be deterred, I tried to schedule a Grab car in advance. But no drivers bit at the 2:00 am, two hour journey up Thailand’s tallest mountain. I sent the world’s friendliest email to my guesthouse in Chiang Mai; however, they were sorry to confirm they weren’t interested in helping me either.

I was approaching my wits end. Though painfully aware that this process was likely more stressful than the 24 kilometer Inthanon 1 itself, I still did not want to give up on Thailand by UTMB. If I could just get there!

I turned to social media. I have all but left that world, but I keep a profile as an open line of potential communication. And never has this served me better than at the 2021 Thailand by UTMB.

An official race photograph of the author and friends, posing for a selfie together in front of the race signage.

I wrote a desperate plea in a Thai trail running group. And that’s when my trail angel appeared! Friends, I could not have done this race if it was not for Roland. My new Swiss friend seemed to descend from the heavens, bestowing on me calming words of wisdom, helpful advice and a most coveted ride in the family car up the mountain. I would be racing Thailand by UTMB after all!

Running free at Thailand by UTMB

Having told you my long sob story about reaching this race, I’ll shorten my account of the physical journey to the start. Suffice to say, it worked out! I had round trip tickets to the north for my 36 hour stay below Doi Inthanon. Roland et al met me at a random intersection in Chiang Mai in the wee hours of the morning. Together, we drove merrily up the mountain to the start.

An official race photo of the author climbing a jungle-clad hill at night time.

I love night starts! There is something so thrilling about rolling up to the start line with fireworks overhead and a mystery course ahead. I was absolutely delighted by the ambiance of this race. Not to mention, incredibly eager to play on the slopes of my first Thai mountain!

My start was not without a snafu or two. As my profile lacked a medical check, initially I couldn’t get my hands on my bib. But now I had an army of Thai-speaking helpers, to whom I am eternally grateful.

I also had significant support from home. Kent had insisted on staying on the phone with me as I met my ‘stranger danger’ ride uphill. He continued to check in with me to make sure I was actually going to run my race! So it was with an extra dose of gratitude that I toed the line of my 24k Inthanon 1!

After half a dozen conversations with staff, a not-insignificant amount of anxiety and with but a few minutes to spare before gun time, I got my race pack! To my absolute delight, I was number 1777! Reminiscent of my number in my first race EVER, it felt lucky. My tide had turned.

A selfie of the author in the start corral at the 2021 Thailand by UTMB, waiting for her Inthanon 1 race to start.

A horn sounded, and we began to file out of the start corral in numbered packs. I was in the last cohort, and this was an extremely good exercise for me. For once, I did not go out too fast! Instead, at a controlled, almost-casual pace, I was able to gradually make my way through the crowd. I cheered on my new friends before loping off into the early morning on my own.

I was relishing the feeling of running in the cool predawn air. The temperature at the starting line was only 13 degrees – a familiar feeling! I zipped along and left all my pre-race cares in the dust.

An official race photo depicting the author running downhill on a dirt track in the early morning.

By the time it was light enough to see by, the race course was passing splendors. The first photo I took in this race was of an enormous waterfall, visible across a valley!

And the day just kept getting better from there! I encountered a steep, slippery climb – and a backlog of racers slogging it. No worries: it was an opportunity for sips, snaps and saving strength!

A dark, slightly blurry snapshot of the Inthanon 1 course at night. An orange race flag flutters on the right, while on the left a long line of colorfully-dressed racers ascend a steep hillside.

By the time it was properly bright outside, I was running through the terraced rice fields promised by race media. It was bucolic and beautiful, and I was completely charmed by each new vista. I felt like I could run forever!

I would not, actually, run forever – because I was in the 24k Inthanon 1. But this too had become a source of joy to me. Even though I didn’t want it to end, I was pleased to be doing my first ‘short’ trail race! The shortest trail I’d done prior to Thailand by UTMB was 2018’s mountain marathon at High1 Skyrunning.

This course alternated between fast flats and punchy quick climbs. The next ascent was on a paved road – but at such an extreme angle, it slowed everyone in my cohort to a hike.

At the first aid station, I proclaimed my undying love for Pocari Sweat to the enthusiastic volunteers. Here was another reason to be ecstatic: I was back in a country that rehydrates on the ultimate sports drink!

An official race photograph of the author against a background of jungle encroaching on lowland rice farms.

The middle of the course was a blur of green rice fields waving in the wind as I ran with my heart around the countryside of northern Thailand. Gone were my promises to check my phone and take tons of photos. I just RAN, and it felt so good.

It didn’t matter that I neglected to capture much, because there were a dozen photographers camped out along the course. This added to the good vibes and encouraged me to run harder – and jump higher – than I might have otherwise.

Perhaps the most memorable moment for me was when I found myself running straight into a river. I definitely had neglected to research the route when my focus was just on getting TO the race. So I had no idea this was coming!

In this official photograph, the author playfully poses for a race photographer - in the middle of a stream!

It was only knee-deep, but nonetheless a thrilling plunge into a cold, fast-moving stream. There were also photographers on all sides capturing my struggle to stay upright! Pure fun.

The final kilometers contained bamboo bridges, a coffee plantation tour, and a handful of selfies as I realized my experience was about to come to an end. I leapt over the finish line, a stoked and satisfied Thailand by UTMB runner with a tidy time of 3 hours, 30 minutes.

An official race photograph of the author's finish line leap at the 2021 Thailand by UTMB!

Post-race party

I headed straight to the snacks tent, of course. To my delight, the friendly volunteers were ready for my request and only too happy to provide a box of veg noodles. A more delicious feast I had never had – until later that evening, when I sampled my first tea leaf salad!

After politely attempting to dab myself clean with wet wipes, I also treated myself to my first Thai massage. But most definitely not my last! As the sun sank behind Doi Inthanon again, I hopped back on the plane. I headed home to Bangkok with my ceramic race medal and a mind full of great new race memories.

An artistic rendering of the unique, ceramic race medals. Several are strung from bamboo poles and are lit brightly against the dark night.

Ladies and gents, Thailand by UTMB is back in a big time way! It’s now one of the UTMB World Series, as the Asia-Pacific Major. There’s a variety of distances to pick from: from a fun run on the Tribes 10k to the truly monstrous Summit 160k – with 10,000+ meters elevation gain!

Despite my difficulties the first time round, I’d return in a heartbeat. I’d definitely try to sort out my accommodation and transportation further in advance – and I’d recommend the same to you. Make contact with local running clubs early if you think you might need some support. But the bottom line is: Chiang Mai is famous for a reason, and what better way to explore Thailand’s highest peak than on foot in an epic footrace? Happy trails!

The author speeds along a dirt track above a rice terrace in this final official race photograph.