It was a cold and blustery Christmas eve. At lower elevations, only a light dusting of snow covered the ground. Warm sunlight would melt a little of it in the day, but leave long icicles hanging from roofs and rocks by night. Wearing every bit of warm gear we owned, we were running the Bukhansan Dullegil – North!
We had just returned to Seoul after a trip abroad. There was only one option for where to stay: beside Bukhansan National Park, of course! This time we chose to stay on the east side, below Dobongsan. We had our sights set on summiting that mountain – and finishing our exploration of the Bukhansan Dullegil!
Two months ago, we’d done a fun run on the southern half of the Bukhansan Dullegil. Now, it was time to see the north!
We always like to get an early start. In the winter, this means hours of running in the dark and during the coldest time of day. For the first part of this run, we saw little save for circles of headlamp light at our feet. At the expense of long stops and photos, this kind of run builds character. Or so we choose to think!
Even before the sky slowly began to brighten, one thing was obvious: the north part of the trail was much less urban than the southern section! We skirted an army base, and signs warned us to stay out of a firing range. Gone were the frequent resting benches and gazebos, and there were no silver-haired grandparents using exercise machines here.
I expected our impressions to change as night turned to day. And they did – but less than I expected. The dullegil dipped back into civilization a few times, but mostly stuck to the forest. Now that we could see properly, there were still more reminders of Seoul’s turbulent history. An old road led us past concrete bunkers and trenches reinforced with sandbags.
Despite wearing half of my wardrobe, I was cold. We’d spent the last two months mostly playing in the tropics, and I knew I was under-prepared for this weather. I tried to focus on the scenery to keep my mind off my frozen fingers and toes, but it didn’t always help. My impressions were of a bleak rather than beautiful landscape at times.
But every so often, we’d climb up a little ways and be treated to a view that did take my breath away. The lack of foliage in the winter forest offered great views of the rocky, snowy peaks above. It’s a stark sort-of loveliness, but I like the honest detail that’s revealed about the shape of the mountains.
By mid-day, we’d covered three-quarters of Bukhansan Dullegil – North. Up to this point, we’d been on all new trail. Now, it was time to revisit Uiryeong-gil and close the loop.
This road through the middle of Bukhansan National Park offered us a great opportunity to move and warm ourselves. The easy, consistent terrain allowed for an increase in speed. Reaching the pass, I’d built up enough warmth that we could stop and savor the views of Obongsan. We thought we could also see the peak of Dobongsan, where we’d spent another chilly morning the day before.
Running down was a breeze. We zipped through the half-frozen park and back down into the city where a holiday video call with my family and a yoga session with our homestay hosts awaited us.
Inside and soaking up the warmth of a heated floor, I felt really grateful for winter. The chill is what makes us appreciate the heat. Although I’d struggled at times in the cold, it was a very good feeling to return to a cozy place just a little bit stronger than before – and with a strong appetite too!
Join us for more Bukhansan Dullegil – be sure to see the southern sections too! Or head back to the Bukhansan main page for more runs and hikes in this awesome and accessible park.