Our new mountain mission nearly ended before it began. Samaksan (삼악산) was a crazy experience in the winter, one that we weren’t really prepared for. Our running plans were turned upside-down and inside-out by the icy conditions on the trails: our Samaksan scramble was like scaling a giant, upside-down icicle!
It was early 2018, and we’d just committed to our brand new mountain mission. Samaksan was to be the first of our 100 summits. We wanted our first summit to be something special. So we made plans to run every inch of Samaksan with our best friend Jaeseung. The route would be epic, and the company excellent.
We met our friend in Chuncheon on an icy January morning. We laughed about the cold in the warm comfort of the bus station, and kept up our bravado as we ventured out onto the street to hail a taxi. Three trail running chums, excited about a project and bolstered by companionship. What could go wrong?
The first sign that things might not go as planned was that it was snowing when we arrived. It had not been snowing in Chuncheon, but at the foot of Samaksan, fat white flakes swirled around the cab. They landed on my nose and eyelashes as we stepped outside.
The second sign? Almost immediately after we paid our fees to enter the trails, Samaksan presented us with a vertical ice climb. I kid you not, it looked like a professional ice climbing wall! Standing at the bottom and looking up, I felt intimidated.
But we proceeded, Jaeseung and Kent carrying on a conversation while I gave the ice my full concentration. Even so, I slipped and fell countless times. Meters from the entrance, I was quickly skidding out of control and soon found myself repeatedly on my rear.
For some reason, we all failed to bring micro spikes for Samaksan, and this was a terrible oversight. We did bring poles, but there were so many ropes courses and rocky scrambles that these only hindered us. Using poles involved constantly hooking and unhooking them from our gloves, shuffling them from hand-to-hand and trying to attach them to our packs on the fly.
We had run exactly zero steps on this ‘run’ – and that was frustrating. In addition, we were dressed for speed – which is to say, wearing the bare minimum of gear suitable for the Korean winter. Progress was so slow up Samaksan it was often literally backwards. Although I know better, I had a hard time accepting what the trail was offering us that day.
On the way up, at several points I was close to tears. My feet already numb, hands red and raw from ropes and stumbles, my confidence in my mountain abilities took a big hit. This Samaksan climb was one of the most challenging things I’d done up to that point. I wondered if every mountain on our list was going to be this difficult. In my lowest moment, I felt afraid, and wondered if I’d misjudged this mission. Maybe this 100 summits challenge exceeded our abilities. Maybe we were just fair weather runners after all.
But this is a story of success. We did not give up on Samaksan, and inched our way slowly – but safely – up its icy slopes. Although it took us a lot longer to reach the summit than we’d originally hoped, it was all the sweeter when we did!
How did we do it? Simple patience and persistence. The infrastructure on Samaksan made the trail navigable, even in the icy conditions. Although the route often looked scary, the biggest dangers amounted to wounded pride and bruised buttocks. Jaeseung was a constant source of encouragement, and numerous Korean grandfathers offered us advice and guidance on our way up.
And once we were up, on the ridge, the intensity was dialed way back. Ice was still present, but only in patches, so we could move a little bit more freely. As always, thrilling views and that inimitable feeling of accomplishment that accompanies scaling a peak were our great rewards.
The wildest of the ice-capades behind us, we thoroughly enjoyed the length of Samaksan’s ridge! We modified our route and its length only slightly, and still got to see all the best sights.
Of course, going down was not without its challenges…
Samaksan is a rugged mountain: a rocky challenge even in great weather. I got more than I bargained for on that winter day, but it’s when we find what we think are our limits that we can push them. Countless times on Korean mountains I stared down what I thought were my boundaries and found a way to surpass my limits. And that all started this snowy ascent (and rocky descent!) of Samaksan.
KNOW AND GO! SAMAKSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Samaksan rises high above the Bukhan River and is just south of Chuncheon. Chuncheon is easy to get to: it’s just a 70 minute trip on the itx train, beginning from Cheongnyangni Station in East Seoul. You can also reach the capital of Gangwon province by bus from other major metros – or using a combination of bus and train.
From Chuncheon, the nearest trailheads are just a 20 minute journey away on public transit. Hop on bus number 7 in front of eMart (adjacent to the bus terminal and a quick walk from South Chuncheon train station). This bus grants you access to all the trails on the southeastern side of Samaksan!
You can also transfer to bus 2 to access trails on Samaksan’s northern flanks.
Driving is not really recommended, as Samaksan is an easy-to-access mountain just outside an urban area. But if you are taking your chariot, note that the parking is limited to a few small lots just off the highway.
Samaksan makes for a great day-trip from Seoul! But the presence of numerous other 100 summits peaks nearby might tempt you to stay on…
HIKE & RUN
There are several trails on Samaksan, as adventurers will find out! The trail on the eastern flank is the most direct – and the steepest! Climbing up from either of the southern entrances, the approach is more gentle and slightly longer. The access trail to the north is the longest route, and there are no trails up from west of Samaksan.
For the complete Samaksan experience, head due west after Samaksan’s summit to experience Cheongunbong. Or head southwest to visit Hongguksa temple. From either of the aforementioned destinations, you can carry on for Deungseonbong and Samakjoabong – the end of the line!
If one massif is not enough, continue northeast past Cheongunbong to reach multiple other peaks on a long, rising ridgeline. Bukbaesan is the highest along this route at 870 meters!
Be wary of climbing in winter. It’s gorgeous and great fun – if you’ve got the proper equipment and protection from the elements!
STAY & EAT
With Chuncheon practically at its base, Samaksan hikers do not go hungry! Get what you need in the city, or dine at one of a handful of mountain cuisine restaurants close to the trails on the southern slopes. Be sure to pack a peak picnic to share!
There’s one or two accommodation options in the Samaksan area – be sure to plan ahead to avoid disappointment. If planning to stay on in Chuncheon, there are plenty of motels, hotels and other types of accommodation. Gapyeong’s famously scenic riverside pensions are not far away, and neither is the hustle and bustle of the Seoul metro area. Options abound!
OTHER NOTES
Samaksan is a very rocky and exciting 654 meters tall over the Bukhan River. Explore it on the Korea Forest Service 100 summits list here or the Black Yak list here.
Our very first summit on our second mountain mission, we scrambled and slid our way around an icy Samaksan in January 2018.
Seek more peaks on the 120 summits main page. And happy Samaksan hiking, one and all!
