Hwaaksan (화악산) was the start of a winter epic that had us running into military members and Buddhist dogs. It was an unforgettable adventure involving climbing two peaks of over 1000 meters and running fast down a highway in between. We improvised an aid station on this journey, and saw the very first signs of spring on the mountain slope.
But our we got off to a rough start on Hwaaksan. The night before, it took us three public transit connections to reach Gapyeong. We arrived long after all the local restaurants had closed, and went to bed late and hungry. We woke up early the next morning to head to the hills, which involved taking one of the most expensive taxi rides ever!
Finally on Hwaaksan’s trails, we were in for a bit of a wilderness adventure next. Multiple swollen rivers were tough to navigate in the dark. There were no signs or maps anywhere, so we had to go up on faith and little else! And going up was tough: a relentless, unseen climb.
As the morning brightened, a narrow path was slowly revealed. Our Hwaaksan route was steep, peppered with snow, ropes, steps and ladders. But the climb was broken up by some sweet, simple chillin’ places. We admired these, but couldn’t stop: we were on a mission!
Up up up! Beautiful rosy dawn colors appeared on neighboring peaks: we had great views already through the foliage. Despite slow going, we made it to Hwaaksan’s summit in lovely morning light. On top, we found some surprise(d) soldiers in a tower. But the main attraction was a large wooden viewing platform, perfect for appreciating vast views!
We skipped along the rocky ridge, doing a couple of exciting climbs and a bit of path-finding in surprisingly dense brush. Aegibong was our bonus peak, where it was so sunny and warm we shed our jackets – and had a nice look back at Hwaaksan!
As is often the case, we got a little lost during our forest road descent of Hwaaksan. But we did find a nice helipad, which led us to think fondly of our first ultra, UTMJ! We slowed down as we passed a temple at the foot of the mountain, then ran quickly and briefly down the highway. On to Myeongjisan!
KNOW AND GO! HWAAKSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Hwaaksan can be found just north of Gapyeong in northern Gyeonggido. Highways 75 and 391 make a nice long loop that enclose this mountain on all sides.
To reach Hwaaksan, you can take a 30,000 won taxi ride in the wee hours of the morning. Or, you can opt for a bus or two. From Gapyeong train station or the bus terminal, take the 15 north of town to Bukmyeon. Transfer to the 50-5, which will deposit you at any of the trailheads on highway 75. Forewarned is forearmed: this journey will take you approximately two hours!
You could also rent a car or use your own. We rarely did so in the Gyeonggi area because public transportation is available. It just requires some patience…or a one-way trip! Our strategy is, almost always, to save time in one direction and take a cab, then save money in the other direction by taking the bus. It’s served us well, so I would definitely recommend it if you don’t go for a rental.
HIKE & RUN
We started before dawn and ended on a nonstandard route, so, no map for you. Sorry ’bout that!
There are loooong trails to the north and south, but few trails to the east of Hwaaksan. Most of the trails start on the western side, directly off of highway 75. The trails along the river offer the quickest route to the summit.
Want to go long? Try the ridge that stretches from Cheonwangsa in the north to the Gapyeong river in the south. Or follow in our footsteps and run over to Myeongjisan!
STAY & EAT
Gapyeong is a great place to stay and eat, but it’s a little far from the action on Hwaaksan. If you’re doing a longer adventure, consider staying over along the Gapyeong river. In season, cool off with water sports – and enjoy great views year round. There’s a ton of pensions on the river, but local language skills will be your best hope to securing one.
There’s also a ton of camping all over this area! Just bear in mind that the combo of public transit plus camping can be tricky, because there isn’t always a shop or a restaurant nearby.
Kent and I stayed in Gapyeong and mostly ate on the run – although we did make excellent use of a convenience store at the foot of Myeongjisan!
OTHER NOTES
Hwaaksan is a rocky and dominant 1446 meters high. As a result, it is celebrated on both of the 100 summits lists! The Korea Forest Service listing is here, and Black Yak listing is here.
Kent and I climbed Hwaaksan on an amazing 35 kilometer adventure with over 2600 meters of elevation gain in March 2018. Our awesome route linked up to nearby Myeongjisan as well!
Have even more fun with even more summits back on the 120 summits main page!
Happy Hwaaksan hiking! 🙂