Gamaksan (Wonju) – (감악산(원주))

This was a mini adventure, but it was also a necessary one. After our Geoje Jimaek DNF, we were eager to end the weekend on a happier, more successful note. Gamaksan (Wonju) – (감악산(원주)) would help remind us that no matter what happens in the mountains, mountains are where we want to be. This was a healing adventure.

A photograph of the author standing on the top of Gamaksan (Wonju). She appears to be laughing on the edge of a granite boulder, above an emerald forest.

We did not get an early start, because it took us all of Sunday to drive up the peninsula from Geoje. So we didn’t have much time, but we wanted to use the time we did! We drove almost to the top of Gamaksan (Wonju) on a very steep and narrow (but nicely paved!) road and parked at Baeknyeongsa temple. It was just about 1k to the top from there!

A portrait of Kent, slightly blurry in movement, climbing up a boulder.
Ascent.

Although we usually prefer longer adventures and seeing more of mountains, on this trip it was nice to have time to stay put and enjoy the peak. With its rugged and scenic views, Gamaksan (Wonju) was a perfect place to do just that!

A portrait of the summit stele, with a massive granite boulder rising above it. The image is complete with a shapely tree growing up into the bright blue sky.
Gamaksan (Wonju)

The main summit is easy enough to ascend (especially after our shortcut drive up to the temple!), but its brother and sister bongs were very rocky indeed – some roped off and some roped up!

We sat on this summit for a while, each of us lost in our own thoughts. I remembered that this was our second Gamaksan, after meeting its cousin Gamaksan (Paju) after an amazing Korea50k training run. Funny that we climbed both of Korea’s Gamaksan mountains immediately after ultras!

A portrait of Kent on the summit of Gamaksan (Wonju). The sky is a pale, pastel blue, and there are a number of ridges in lines beyond this peak.

Going up, I was processing mixed feelings. I felt great to be back in the mountains and in a new sports outfit (hastily purchased in Wonju when I realized I didn’t have extra clothes). But I also felt badly about how Geoje had gone. After two years of ultra successes, we’d made numerous mistakes (no sleep, inadequate nutrition being chief among them) that led to our poor performance in the race. Even sitting on a summit in golden sunshine couldn’t fix that completely: that would take time.

A landscape photo of the multiple rugged peaks of Gamaksan (Wonju)! Some are topped with foliage, but the peak nearest the camera is a jagged, bare rock!

Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn. Gamaksan (Wonju) was a win. It wasn’t the win we sought, but it was the win we got. The longer we spent scrambling around on the mountains rocks, the better we both felt. Happiness is the only outcome that matters. And we’re just always pretty damn happy in the mountains!

Carrie and Kent pose with the low black summit stele marking the peak of Gamaksan (Wonju).
Got those good vibes goin’!

I’m so glad we came to do a lovely little run and sit on Gamaksan (Wonju), just when we needed it most.

KNOW AND GO! GAMAKSAN (WONJU)

TRANSPORTATION

Though this mountain is named for Wonju, Jecheon is closer. Reach either city by train or intercity bus.

From Wonju, you can take any number of buses to the southern edge of the city. At the Gwangsil intersection in front of the Gangwon KT building, there’s a stop for bus 22, which will take you to Sinrim. Cross under the freeway to reach the trails! Or, take the 24 directly from Wonju station to trails (and camping) off highway 88 on the northern side of Gamaksan (Wonju).

Coming from Jecheon, take bus #35 from either the bus terminal or the train station. This is a shorter transit option (35-45 minutes), but a longer hike, as you’ll start on Yongdusan and make your way north to Gamaksan (Wonju).

You could take a taxi to the trailhead nearest to you. Or, if you’re driving, you can drive the steep, paved road up to Baeknyeongsa and give yourself a huge headstart.

A photograph of a white car parked just below the tone wall of a temple. The curved tile roof of a temple building is visible above the wall.
Head start spot!

HIKE & RUN

Legend has it that you can reach Gamaksan (Wonju) from Chiaksan! However, I think the connecting trails are officially closed, and I’m not sure if that is long or short-term. Perhaps it’s better to visit Gamaksan (Wonju) directly.

If you do, you’ll find a mountain with many, many trails. A long ridge connects Gamaksan (Wonju) to Yongdusan for longer adventures. Or, if you’re feeling exploratory, drop down on one of the many valley trails to find camping and more!

A close-up of the Gamaksan (Wonju) trials in the Baeknyeongsa area. A red line depicts the trail on a light green topographic map.
Partial Gamaksan (Wonju) trail map

Short on time but still want to see Gamaksan (Wonju)? You’re in luck, because there is a road all the way up to Baeknyeongsa temple, and from there it is just 1 kilometer to the top!

STAY & EAT

Regrettably, I don’t think there’s any mountain cuisine below Gamaksan (Wonju). We didn’t find any evidence of the little tourist villages that are common at the foot of many Korean mountains. But we didn’t do a lot of research about where to start, so perhaps there’s more stuff to be had at one of the mountain’s many other entrances!

Food is iffy in the area, but camping is abundant! All of the trails on the north side of Gamaksan (Wonju) start/end in campgrounds. There appear to be some rooms for rent below Yongdusan, south on the same ridge as Gamaksan (as described above).

OTHER NOTES

Gamaksan (Wonju) is 930 meters tall, with dramatic views over the Wonju area. This mountain is exclusively on the Black Yak 100 summits list: head here to view its listing.

In May 2018, Kent and I did a micro mini 2.5k fun run on Gamaksan (Wonju). This followed a less-than-fun experience at the Geoje Jimaek trail race.

The 120 summits main page has more mountains to meet your needs.

A cloud inversion fills the valleys below Gamaksan (Wonju) with mist. The low angle of the sun illuminates the mist and casts the ridges in shadow. The author is standing to the right, surveying the scene.

Happy hiking – on Gamaksan (Wonju) and beyond!


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