This adventure began at a beautiful temple in the blue light of dawn. The scenery was sublime: there was even a waterfall! It was a place to stop and meditate, not run away from! But our mission, in the dark shape of Cheonseongsan (천성산) above, beckoned us to begin – so we started to climb.
Multiple trails made for a bit of a confused start, especially in the dark! Even so, we were soon making our way up Cheonseongsan on a comfortable earthen ridge on a trail bordered by pines.
The sun rose over the golden grasses that blanket the slopes of Cheonseongsan, and we emerged from the forest just in time to see the very first rays. The warm golden glow belied the season: the long grass seemed ready for harvest, despite the fact that spring was only just beginning.
We enjoyed the wide open spaces of the ascent, taking in views of the valley below and looking out over the protected swampland that this mountain is famous for. As we approached Wonhyobong, we ran through a very strange section of trail…
But this protected corridor was short, and we were soon at the summit. On the rolling grasslands on top of Cheonseongsan, there were many campers. Some were still sleeping, some were eating their breakfasts and still others were already starting to descend!
Terrific air quality made for great, long-distance views, and we lingered in the warm rays of the sun.
Moving along, we opted to head to 2-bong, breaking some snowy trail! This area is a little less densely signposted and with the fresh snow, it was somewhat challenging to find the way. Needless to say, we got a little lost – but then we found the way!
To me, it was well worth it: I was super happy to be visiting a peak that hadn’t yet seen any visitors yet that day! To reach Birobong, we climbed onto another great ridge and then the dramatic, rocky peak appeared.
When we eventually had to descend, I was happy that the fun was not over: we were soon enjoying a lovely stream.
At the foot of Cheonseongsan we waited for a taxi that never came, but all was not lost. We gained extra time to stretch and check out another captivating temple.
Then we got a bonus 5k run in, heading down a mountain road. Finally, we found a bus that would take us to a train that would take us to the bus that would ultimately get us home!
KNOW AND GO! CHEONSEONGSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Busan friends, you’re in luck! This one is closer to you than it is to the capital. Cheonseongsan is in the southeast corner of the peninsula. The nearest city is Yangsan.
Head to the western suburbs of Yangsan to access one of many mountain trails. From Yangsan subway station or the bus terminal, you can take a 30 minute ride on bus 32.
If you’re coming from Busan and you’re up for a longer day on the trails, there’s also trail access from just north of Nopo subway station! Hoof it or hop on bus 11 (the most seamless connection is actually from Beomeosa station).
Alternatively, there’s a KTX station in Ulsan, which is just north of this mountain. That’s another option if you’re coming from Seoul or thereabouts – but from Ulsan you’ll need either an hour on public buses (try the 304 + 40 combo) or a significant taxi fare.
HIKE & RUN
I’m too excited not to start with this: you can link Cheonseongsan to Geumjeongsan! This knowledge honestly makes me want to return to Busan: there’s some real long runs available here, with great connections to the subway system!
There’s also a wealth of options on Cheonseongsan itself. From the peak, trails spiderweb off in all directions. Which way will you go?
The quickest way to the summit is from the west side, just off the number one highway. There’s a little village there called Soto, which is a relatively short bus or taxi ride from Yangsan. The longest ways begin at either terminus of the Busan subway system: Yangsan or Nopo stations are both close to Cheonseongsan trailheads!
STAY & EAT
You can stay quite happily in Yangsan. This is something I know from several bike trip experiences, as well as this mountain mission! For some reason, Yangsan has a good selection of cheap but nice motels – many of which are (or at least were, in 2018) brand new.
As usual, I didn’t delve into any of the food. You definitely can eat in Yangsan, and I’m sure there are lots of options. But if you’re a mountain cuisine princess (that’s me!), the scene is not as good for you.
Of course, if you live in or are spending time in Busan, this makes a great day trip!
OTHER NOTES
Cheonseongsan is a beloved mountain, standing 992 meters tall over the Nakdonggang plains. Cheonseongsan is represented on both of Korea’s 100 famous summits lists: see the Korea Forest Service listing here and the Black Yak 100 one here!
Kent and I ran a 13 kilometer point-to-point route on this lovely mountain, taking in both of its peaks in March 2018!
On the 120 summits main page, you’ll find still more mountains – in Gyeongsangdo and beyond!
Happy trails to you, my friend! Go long – in kilometers earned or peaceful hours enjoyed.